Shift Solenoid Replacement

I used just the shift kit. I felt the difference before I got to the end of my block.
 
I believe I felt it today. I was driving (hot trans) and then felt a hard shift. I thought it was maybe a bump in the road but then it did it again about 1 minute later when shifting.

In addition to the Transgo ShiftKit, they recommend the Actuator Feed Valve Repair Kit, as shown here:

More Information for TRANSGO 4T65AFL

Is the above valve needed also with the TransGo ShiftKit or just the ShiftKit alone?
I just watched the video. Yeah it’s probably easy if the tranny is out of the car.
 
If the MAF signal is erratic compared to other inputs, then the PCM will fall back to default or last-known viable inputs. In other words a make-shift decision, a sort of dynamic limp mode. Like incorrect shifting, Ouch!
Depending on the sensor and vehicle and year etc.. they may also use a semi-rational place holder thats static or very stiff change wise but allows the rest of the setup to work well enough to keep it going
 
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Here’s a video that I used.

I will give it s shot over the weekend. How difficult was the install?

What kind of difference did you feel after the kit install?

That black gasket on the accumulator. Does the kit include a new one? I can see that ripping if it gets stuck due to heat cycles.
 
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I will give it s shot over the weekend. How difficult was the install?

What kind of difference did you feel after the kit install?

That black gasket on the accumulator. Does the kit include a new one? I can see that ripping if it gets stuck due to heat cycles.
It was easy. Take your time. You’re basically just replacing the weak accumulator springs and adding some spacers. I took this opportunity to change my filter and upgrade to a tranny pan with a drain plug. It took me a little under 2 hours start to finish including clean up. I took my time. If I ever had to do it on one of my brothers cars I could easily cut the time in half.
 
At 175K what does the transmission fluid look like? If brown or you can see material in it you may want to consider reusing the old fluid. The problem if the fluid does have the clutch material suspended in it once it's removed the transmission may just slip as it has nothing in it to grab. As it wasn't asked and no one is on site just something to be mindful of, good luck on the project.
 
I did the shift kit at about 150k miles and used Castrol Dex/Merc high mileage fluid. I have not experienced any slippage, just nice quick shifts with none of the harshness that was happening when I bought the car at 144k miles.
 
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I did the shift kit at about 150k miles and used Castrol Dex/Merc high mileage fluid. I have not experienced any slippage, just nice quick shifts with none of the harshness that was happening when I bought the car at 144k miles.

So you got around 25k miles on the shift kit?

So the shift kit is considered a long term repair and not only a short-term "band aid" ?
 
So you got around 25k miles on the shift kit?

So the shift kit is considered a long term repair and not only a short-term "band aid" ?
I’m at 166k miles. I can’t comment on long term results. Search here on this forum for other folks experience with this. All I know is that so far it’s working for me.
 
The "one size fits all" solution doesn't apply to every vehicle. The condition and maintenance of the transmission is a case by case basis of each individual vehicle. If the transmission fluid is brown, burnt smelling, has clutch material and is 200K the solution may not be the answer vs 100K and regular maintenance. Compare the current condition of your vehicle and then consider what options to move forward.
 
At 175K what does the transmission fluid look like? If brown or you can see material in it you may want to consider reusing the old fluid. The problem if the fluid does have the clutch material suspended in it once it's removed the transmission may just slip as it has nothing in it to grab. As it wasn't asked and no one is on site just something to be mindful of, good luck on the project.
IF your transmission slips after a fluid change with the right fluid, your transmission is shot. and you were living on some borrowed time. and if its brown id be concerned about coolant contamination from muddy coolant
Dark red, bright red, black, red with debris in the fluid, fluid with a burnt foul odor are some examples of encounterable fluid conditions
 
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So you got around 25k miles on the shift kit?

So the shift kit is considered a long term repair and not only a short-term "band aid" ?
im convinced that the harshness was likely the fluid itself and his refreshing the fluid was more consequential than the shift kit, since the shifts are electronically controlled to keep them in a certain time.
The shift kit isnt bad, and its most certainly a great idea if your accumulator springs were broken or worn out. Its a common misunderstanding of what exactly its for and does. if someone has a higher mileage car they just picked up and the fluid is looking a little old then picking one up realistically is wise sine even new dexron VI fluid and resetting the transmission adaptive pressures by pulling the battery or using a scan tool cant help worn or broken springs on the accumulator, fluid loss on the pipes between them, worn bores, etc.

And the 4t65e Stock programming is a little too generous on those 2nd gear shifts as well as initial apply for 1sr and reverse to get moving. Especially a heavy car. Those over time usually mean more wear than the 2004+ models which should not have that problem
 
With the P1811 code. Will this trip a Check Engine Light?

If not, how does one know the P1811 code has been tripped?

Is there any "negative" to installing this kit before one gets the P1811 code?
unless you are pushing 300hp and like to mash WOT from stand still I dont see the shift kit hurting a 4t65e but it may make a transmission that doesnt need it seem harsh without benefit , but the harshness is not going to mean damage in a lesabre. iF someone wanted to really retain lesabres soft feeling then the magnet TSB, a new diff lube pipe, dexron VI, a good new filter, new accumulator springs(and if needed, address wear on bore), a trans cooler, new cooler lines if kinked at all, reset the TAP,



and then drive gentle yet dont take time getting into second by accelerating and then pulling throttle when the shift would normally occur for a while to train the car to adapt to that and give it healthy going forward operation.
 
Blah, blah, blah, blah blah. You can listen to the naysayers or you can just do it.
Changing your tranny fluid is not going to fix weak accumulator springs.
For about 2 hours or less of labor and about a hundred bucks between the kit, a jug of tranny fluid and the filter you’ll be back to properly shifting with no harsh bang shifts.
Your call…a tranny rebuild or the shift kit.
….and the satisfaction of doing it yourself 😁
 
Yes sir, TransGo Kit I put that sh*t on everything!
 
Blah, blah, blah, blah blah. You can listen to the naysayers or you can just do it.
Changing your tranny fluid is not going to fix weak accumulator springs.
For about 2 hours or less of labor and about a hundred bucks between the kit, a jug of tranny fluid and the filter you’ll be back to properly shifting with no harsh bang shifts.
Your call…a tranny rebuild or the shift kit.
….and the satisfaction of doing it yourself 😁

I'm definetly going to do the shift kit, most likely this weekend. Got the parts, looks pretty straightforward. It looks like the extra yellow and red springs are not used, as those are used if you remove the valvebody.
 
Blah, blah, blah, blah blah. You can listen to the naysayers or you can just do it.
Changing your tranny fluid is not going to fix weak accumulator springs.
Considering that I agreed with that in my posts I’m sorry you felt that was necessary to say.
 
Did the accumulator spring swap. Not too hard of a job. Just went slow and all went well. The accumulator bolts are 97 inch pounds for the torque setting in case anyone wants to know.

Now I know WHY the Dorman trans pan drain plug was leaking. I put some Permatex thread sealer on the drain plug and the sealant came up through the bung gap, as seen below:

QUESTION: Run it as is or maybe put some Ultra Grey around that bung area to help seal it? Maybe the Permatex thread sealer will fill thr gap to prevent the leak?

Otherwise, I have to find another Dorman trans pan but I need to install it for now to run the car again.

Drain Plug.jpg
 
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