Sight and Sound package.

[ezpotato]

Yeah mine has some heavy bass, esp with my wife's pop songs. The bass you can kinda feel in your body.

 

[PrincipalDan]

When the song is pumping I can feel a nice vibration in the door panel that I'm resting my elbow in - that's plenty adequate for me. I have got the bass much up above 1/2 way. But I have also found that I think the Bose system sounds richer and deeper if I've got the volume higher than about a quarter of the way up.

 

[6APPEAL]

I have the Bose system in my TourX, which is not to my standard. The sub lacks impact, the midbass is muddy, the midrange lacks presence and the tweeters have no sparkle.

I'm am a long time audiophile with several thousand CDs and SACDs paired with a couple of terabytes of hi-res digital music. All my vehicles have aftermarket systems in them with the exception of my TourX. For my home theater I designed/built all the speaker cabinets and crossovers based on the raw drivers I chose to use.

It most likely will not be until sometime after the 1st of the year until I can get the TourX into the shop. What I want done is considered to be a big project and my friend's shop has several other big projects in line in front of me. So I will just keep researching and buying the bits and pieces I need for the build. I'm still considering adding a portable hi-res player to the system, such as a Fiio M11, Astell & Kern Kann, Pioneer XDP-02U, Sony Walkman NW-ZX300 or Onkyo DP-X1.

 

[jclin4]

I have the Bose system in my TourX, which is not to my standard. The sub lacks impact, the midbass is muddy, the midrange lacks presence and the tweeters have no sparkle.

I'm am a long time audiophile with several thousand CDs and SACDs paired with a couple of terabytes of hi-res digital music. All my vehicles have aftermarket systems in them with the exception of my TourX. For my home theater I designed/built all the speaker cabinets and crossovers based on the raw drivers I chose to use.

It most likely will not be until sometime after the 1st of the year until I can get the TourX into the shop. What I want done is considered to be a big project and my friend's shop has several other big projects in line in front of me. So I will just keep researching and buying the bits and pieces I need for the build. I'm still considering adding a portable hi-res player to the system, such as a Fiio M11, Astell & Kern Kann, Pioneer XDP-02U, Sony Walkman NW-ZX300 or Onkyo DP-X1.

Nice to encounter another DIY speaker builder! I build from scratch, measure, design, etc., too but I’m not into car audio, so my standards/expectations there are low. The S&S package in the TourX is fine for me; and I like auto-stop for the brief quiet it provides.

Keep us posted on your future project, though!

 

[liuby33]

To be fair before we get to Rolls Royce level of sound insulation I think it's kinda pointless to have hifi in a car, especially when the current Bose is good enough. Kinda like wearing a pair of HD660 on the open street. Might not be "good enough" for some audiophiles, good for you who have the leisure to sit in your car idle just to listen to music 😉

 

[Idano]

I don't need a sound studio on wheels. I don't spend enough time in a car that it's a priority to spend the time and money just to have killer tunes.
It's actually very good for an OEM system.
You do realize there are some people that think the factory wheels on these things are beautiful ? Different strokes for different folks.

 

[landsharkmz3]

Interesting. Have you checked to see that the sub in the hatch floor actually works? I am an audiophile myself and am pretty picky about my systems (over $6,000 in my living room surround set up) and if you don't feel bass in a song with gobs of it, I'd be inclined to say something is wrong with yours. I have the 900 watt Harman Kardon system in my RAM and the Bose system puts out damn near the same levels of bass, with the RAM eauilizer set to full bass and the Buick on 3/4.

I'm not trying to say you're wrong here, just that it sounds like you might have a faulty connection or setting. 🤷‍♂️

You might be on to something. I did a little experiment and was disappointed with the results.

Here's what I did:
- Set volume to ~40% (louder than I normally listen)
- Played Ludacris: How Low Remix
- Door speakers played as expected, some base, and even shook the door cards, but not deep base (as expected). Only the sub can hit the very low stuff.
- Open hatch, lift floor and listen closely to sub. It was on and playing but was very soft, almost muted. No deep or hard hits.
- Went into settings and turned the bass up almost all the way.
- System boosted the bass through other speakers, but no noticeable difference form the sub.

I like testing with that song because there are sections that hit the bass at a higher frequency then slide down to very low frequency. It lets me hear how consistent the base is across the low frequency range. In my car, during that slide, the note just gets softer and softer as the frequency goes down, and I can't hear it at all when it gets to the bottom.

About me: I don't consider myself a true audiophile, but I do appreciate good quality. My home system is a full Paradigm surround setup (not little bookshelves either) pushed by a Marantz.

 

[PrincipalDan]

You might be on to something. I did a little experiment and was disappointed with the results.

Here's what I did:
- Set volume to ~40% (louder than I normally listen)
- Played Ludacris: How Low Remix
- Door speakers played as expected, some base, and even shook the door cards, but not deep base (as expected). Only the sub can hit the very low stuff.
- Open hatch, lift floor and listen closely to sub. It was on and playing but was very soft, almost muted. No deep or hard hits.
- Went into settings and turned the bass up almost all the way.
- System boosted the bass through other speakers, but no noticeable difference form the sub.

I like testing with that song because there are sections that hit the bass at a higher frequency then slide down to very low frequency. It lets me hear how consistent the base is across the low frequency range. In my car, during that slide, the note just gets softer and softer as the frequency goes down, and I can't hear it at all when it gets to the bottom.

About me: I don't consider myself a true audiophile, but I do appreciate good quality. My home system is a full Paradigm surround setup (not little bookshelves either) pushed by a Marantz.

Unplug sub and see if there's a difference?

Dead subwoofer as delivered?

 

[pasini510]

Seems to me to be an almost useless sub and I wonder if upgrading that alone would add to the quality of sound ?

 

[FavaBean]

@landsharkmz3 You may want to disconnect/reconnect wires to your sub to make sure the connection is seated properly. Also what is your music source? Not all inputs are treated equally (unfortunately) and produce varying outputs. I find my USB input via USB stick is weaker and produces little bass even with quality MP3 recordings.

Also, if you are using a phone for your music source, are you using BT, headphone or hardwired (to see if your signal is pre or post amp/EQ from your phone). Additionally, the phone music volume needs to be turned up pretty high for a nice fat signal.

If you still have Sirius/XM, that is the fullest sound source I've come across yet (with the exception of my Axon 7 phone headphone output). Check out the NY and LA stations (channels 12 and 11 respectively) if you are looking for bass. I really wish Sirius/XM was a cleaner sound!

Lastly, I don't want to turn this into a red vs white needle but I'm going to anyway 🙂 . Which one do you have? The head units have different RPO numbers and therefore they are different units.

I agree with @jclin4 . It's the mid-range which is lacking. There's plenty of bass... it's not tight bass..but it IS a very powerful boomy bass. FWIW - I'm a red needler.

 

[Idano]

It's starting to sound as if "your" Bose system isn't putting out enough Bass, the problem just might be in "your" Bose system, not necessarily "the" Bose system.
Like Fava said, I don't get the same volume off my USB wav files as the SiriusXM, 50% volume level setting on the USB = around 35-40% volume level setting on the SiriusXM.
If I have the Bass level set in the middle and volume at 50% and play the Brooks and Dunne version of My Maria off the USB, it will vibrate the rear view mirror.
It is one of the better factory sound systems I've heard. I'll spend my time and money upgrading my patio sound system, that's where I listen to music the most. Sit out with an adult beverage, listen to some tunes while I ponder the joy of grilling.

 

[PrincipalDan]

Music is highly subjective.

My wife enjoys a well tuned equalizer but doubt she would ever get the volume above 20% and doesn't want much bass.

I love to be alone in the car so I can crank it up and have the bass set above 50%. (But still don't take the Bose volume much above 40%)

FYI I can hear my music outside the car with doors and windows closed.

To each their own.

 

[JoeBlog]

My Bose system is capable of making the interior sound levels uncomfortable, and it’s totally stock. It’ll rattle all the mirrors, and give me an “I’m stuck inside a speaker” feeling.
**SARCASM ENGINE ENGAGED**
People driving past me in the opposite direction at 50 mph can tell the song and artist I’m listening to, with the windows up and in a driving rain. Birds and insects alter their migratory paths due to the sound pressure levels. I once had it cranked all the way up and made the mistake of opening the door while it was parked alongside my house. Lost every window on that side of my house. And, it blew all the paint off, too. DARPA is considering using the TourX as a strategic battlefield weaponized physiological device, as long as it’s an Essence with Sight and Sound. Oh yeah, and it MUST be a white needle wagon.
**SARCASM ENGINE OFF**
Seriously; check the connections, or see if someone stuffed something in the subwoofer at the factory. You should be at least getting a rumble out of it.

 

[carsrmilife]

To be fair before we get to Rolls Royce level of sound insulation I think it's kinda pointless to have hifi in a car, especially when the current Bose is good enough. Kinda like wearing a pair of HD660 on the open street. Might not be "good enough" for some audiophiles, good for you who have the leisure to sit in your car idle just to listen to music 😉

I digress. Have you driven a Lexus with the Mark Levinson or Acura with ELS? They are both very good systems, with on par sound insulation, I feel. And both knock the Bose system out of the park.

You might be on to something. I did a little experiment and was disappointed with the results.

Here's what I did:
- Set volume to ~40% (louder than I normally listen)
- Played Ludacris: How Low Remix
- Door speakers played as expected, some base, and even shook the door cards, but not deep base (as expected). Only the sub can hit the very low stuff.
- Open hatch, lift floor and listen closely to sub. It was on and playing but was very soft, almost muted. No deep or hard hits.
- Went into settings and turned the bass up almost all the way.
- System boosted the bass through other speakers, but no noticeable difference form the sub.

I like testing with that song because there are sections that hit the bass at a higher frequency then slide down to very low frequency. It lets me hear how consistent the base is across the low frequency range. In my car, during that slide, the note just gets softer and softer as the frequency goes down, and I can't hear it at all when it gets to the bottom.

About me: I don't consider myself a true audiophile, but I do appreciate good quality. My home system is a full Paradigm surround setup (not little bookshelves either) pushed by a Marantz.

Like FavaBean said, the source does make a difference. I agree, SXM sounds the best to me. I don't have any uncompressed audio on my phone, as it takes up too much space, but that would ultimately be the best for what the system could truly deliver, if it's able to process it.

If I recall though, don't some of our cars that don't have the upgraded Bose system, still have the Bose stickers on the doors? Leading to a misleading mess. They still have the sub in the hatch too, just no Bose amp. Unless of course you in face have the S&S package, then you have the upgraded system and its of no question.

If you do have S&S, i'd say it sounds like you have a defective sub or amp that's not processing the low's correctly. Have you unplugged and plugged it back in yet, to re-seat the connection?

 

[6APPEAL]

I'm going to throw some cold water on the red needle vs white needle debate. The Bose amp is exactly the same part number for each. The only difference in part numbers is how equipped, i.e. NAV, no NAV, ANC, no ANC (Active Noise Control), NGI, no NGI (Next Generation Infotainment). Even the Receiver, Control Unit and Display unit share part numbers with the only differences based on the RPO code (IO5, IO6, IOB, IOR, IOS, IOT). The IOB RPO code is not available in the 2019 and the only difference I can find between the two systems. I could not say that the programming associated with the different systems is really that different.

I digress. Have you driven a Lexus with the Mark Levinson or Acura with ELS? They are both very good systems, with on par sound insulation, I feel. And both knock the Bose system out of the park.

Like FavaBean said, the source does make a difference. I agree, SXM sounds the best to me. I don't have any uncompressed audio on my phone, as it takes up too much space, but that would ultimately be the best for what the system could truly deliver, if it's able to process it.

If you do have S&S, i'd say it sounds like you have a defective sub or amp that's not processing the low's correctly. Have you unplugged and plugged it back in yet, to re-seat the connection?

The Mark Levinson systems can be so much better. There is a guy on one of the car audio boards I frequent that upgrades the factory amp associated with those systems. No additional power is gained from his upgrades, but sound quality is vastly improved. I know someone who had his upgraded and the difference is night and day. Then he upgraded the drivers using the factory locations with aftermarket drivers that cost less than the factory replacements and WOW again. Just like any "factory" system, it's about the bottom dollar and the parts used in the upgrade are far better quality.

Uncompressed or Hi-res audio sounds the same from my phone (plugged in via USB) or USB stick. Bluetooth sounds different, just don't know it it's the phone or the car causing the difference. But I'd be willing to bet a bit of both since Bluetooth sounds different in my aftermarket systems also.

I would be more willing to think the issue is with his subwoofer than the amp. It could be plug problem, voice coil(s) damaged, tensil lead to the voice coil(s) damaged (dual voice coil woofer is used).

 

[pasini510]

I checked the connection and the sub is working. I dont have the Bose system but have a premium sound ,according to salesman. I do have the subwoofer in spare.
My wife has the Bose system in her car Tour x Essence and hers sounds much cleaner.

 

[Banjo]

I agree the Sub on Bose System will Rattle the Car.

 

[6APPEAL]

I checked the connection and the sub is working. I dont have the Bose system but have a premium sound ,according to salesman. I do have the subwoofer in spare.
My wife has the Bose system in her car Tour x Essence and hers sounds much cleaner.

The Bose amp has more power than the other amps.

 

[fng]

A car salesman is capable of calling anything "premium."

 

[D2R]

I'm going to throw some cold water on the red needle vs white needle debate. The Bose amp is exactly the same part number for each. The only difference in part numbers is how equipped, i.e. NAV, no NAV, ANC, no ANC (Active Noise Control), NGI, no NGI (Next Generation Infotainment). Even the Receiver, Control Unit and Display unit share part numbers with the only differences based on the RPO code (IO5, IO6, IOB, IOR, IOS, IOT). The IOB RPO code is not available in the 2019 and the only difference I can find between the two systems. I could not say that the programming associated with the different systems is really that different.


The Mark Levinson systems can be so much better. There is a guy on one of the car audio boards I frequent that upgrades the factory amp associated with those systems. No additional power is gained from his upgrades, but sound quality is vastly improved. I know someone who had his upgraded and the difference is night and day. Then he upgraded the drivers using the factory locations with aftermarket drivers that cost less than the factory replacements and WOW again. Just like any "factory" system, it's about the bottom dollar and the parts used in the upgrade are far better quality.

Uncompressed or Hi-res audio sounds the same from my phone (plugged in via USB) or USB stick. Bluetooth sounds different, just don't know it it's the phone or the car causing the difference. But I'd be willing to bet a bit of both since Bluetooth sounds different in my aftermarket systems also.

I would be more willing to think the issue is with his subwoofer than the amp. It could be plug problem, voice coil(s) damaged, tensil lead to the voice coil(s) damaged (dual voice coil woofer is used).

IOB, IO5, IO6 are red needles.
IOR, IOS, IOT are white needles.
That is why you won't have 2019 IOB, or IO5 & IO6.