When to Let Your PA Go??

01PA

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Location
Cleveland, OH
Buick Ownership
2001 Buick Park Avenue
So I took my car to get an oil change and they looked my car over as well because my car wouldn't start a week before the oil change and all of a sudden did. Here's what they found wrong with my car:

1. Need new upper and lower radiator hoses.
2. Need new struts
3. Need rear toe links
4. Need new fuel pump (Why the car didn't start)
5. Need new drive axels (leaking grease/sludge up front on brakes and front suspension stuff)

Other stuff:
1. Coolant flush
2. Transmission flush
3. Possible battery

Now, I went to NTB to get the oil change and the total for everything was $2,679. Of course, I'm NOT PAYING THAT. The guy was making conversation and told me that he wouldn't put any money into the car because it's just not worth it, he felt, as more would keep going wrong and the prices will increase, especially for a PA. My car has some rust issues he said and it being a 2001 with 166k miles, stuff is gonna go wrong and I know that.

I don't feel the things it needs are major things like the car should be dumped, but I wondered why he said that. I was just putting that out there to see what you guys may think.

I looked up the value of my car and it's worth about $1300 according to Edmunds. I bought it this june for $2100.

I put about $1000 into it since then to replace the brake lines that went out, the brake calipers and bleeders that broke and the rear air shocks that went out as well.

Still, it's not time for it to leave, exactly, is it?
Here's some pics:
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1. Need new upper and lower radiator hoses.
2. Need new struts
3. Need rear toe links
4. Need new fuel pump (Why the car didn't start)
5. Need new drive axels (leaking grease/sludge up front on brakes and front suspension stuff)

Other stuff:
1. Coolant flush
2. Transmission flush
3. Possible battery

I don't feel the things the car needs are anything, like the car should be dumped, but I wondered why he said what he did.You wonder why he said that?
It's all about $$$ to the business bottom line. Yes, you may need some repairs, but get a 2nd & 3rd opinion at some reputable qualified shops. You may find the repairs mentioned, would be 1/2 the price quoted. Salt plays havoc on these cars, brake & gas lines, as well as body parts. Fortunately, we don't have to worry about rust in the south. If you want a rust free car, look in the SE, or SW. Anything above this area, would require complete a complete history and a through inspection. Some people in the rust-belt do not drive their best cars in the winter, while others do not care.
 
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You need another shop or mechanic. And you can replace those radiator hoses (about $20) yourself right? Do a cooling system flush at the same time.
I wouldn't bother with a transmission flush if it shifts fine.
Are you sure the drive axels need replacement or is it just the boots that are leaking?

It will certainly cost something to get new struts and a new fuel pump. But it can probably be done for like a 5th of that price. Either they want to sell you another car or they don't want have anything to do with old cars.
 
Agree with the other guys especially on the trans flush. I've heard a lot of guys say that after they had theirs flushed the trans started acting up. They recommend just draining the fluid, changing the filter, and refilling with the new VII fluid.

Just take your time doing what needs to be done and shop around as mentioned before. Find a guy that will do the work if you don't want to and bring him the parts that you find for the cheapest price.

These cars are nice and a lot of people wish they had them instead of their 08 or newer piece of crap car. If you can make sure the engine and suspension are working well then everything else can be on a lower priority.

And if you're not sure if someone is shooting straight with you, just stop by the old buickforums.com and ask. You'll always get a few options and from guys who are looking out for you.
 
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Thanks guys. I didn't think the car should be junked the way he made it out to seem. I'm gonna get some stuff done when I get money. I start a new job in a few weeks so I'm hoping nothing happens in that time lol
 
You need another shop or mechanic. And you can replace those radiator hoses (about $20) yourself right? Do a cooling system flush at the same time.
I wouldn't bother with a transmission flush if it shifts fine.
Are you sure the drive axels need replacement or is it just the boots that are leaking?

It will certainly cost something to get new struts and a new fuel pump. But it can probably be done for like a 5th of that price. Either they want to sell you another car or they don't want have anything to do with old cars.

I'm not sure if it's the boots or the whole axels, but he did take me to the car when it was in the air to show me and it was nothing but sludge-type stuff on the lower ends. I'm not a really mechanical person, so I wasn't sure.
 
The sludge-type-stuff would be grease 🙂 the boots keep it in unless they are torn. That by it self doesn't mean at all that the axle would be bad or need replacement. If you had bad axles I think you would have noticed noises during driving, especially in corners.
The boots are only a couple of $, but can be difficult to install. But I see they have split boots for your type, which are about $15 but are very easy to install, you could do that yourself.

You would need another opinion on the struts, do they really need to be replaced now or aren't they just as new and spotless as that mechanic wanted them to be?

You have to wonder about stuff like that when a mechanic says he wouldn't put more money into it, one of the reasons being "the battery might possibly go dead' 😕
Of course you can never go wrong with that, because every battery will ultimately go dead !! 🙄
 
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Do the fuel pump and radiator hoses, have the battery tested at one of the "chain" parts stores...that'll keep the car on the road... Do the other things as you see fit.
And as the others have said, find a good independent shop.

And when do you let an old car go? My thought is when it's something to repair every week and the car isn't dependable anymore.

The PA is a great car, smooth ride and an excellent drivetrain.
 
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I had my '93 PAU for only a week, when the rear sub-frame mounts let loose. But while fixing the sub frame & installing new mounts back there, I looked the car over good, & determined that it was worth keeping.
Only other items I replaced was the pan gasket on the engine, which was seeping, front brake pads & rotors ( warped rotors ), and the cap on the windshield washer tank !😀
That was in July 2012..20 K miles ago...

The new coupler for the blower is still in the glove box !
 
The sludge-type-stuff would be grease 🙂 the boots keep it in unless they are torn. That by it self doesn't mean at all that the axle would be bad or need replacement. If you had bad axles I think you would have noticed noises during driving, especially in corners.
The boots are only a couple of $, but can be difficult to install. But I see they have split boots for your type, which are about $15 but are very easy to install, you could do that yourself.

You would need another opinion on the struts, do they really need to be replaced now or aren't they just as new and spotless as that mechanic wanted them to be?

You have to wonder about stuff like that when a mechanic says he wouldn't put more money into it, one of the reasons being "the battery might possibly go dead' 😕
Of course you can never go wrong with that, because every battery will ultimately go dead !! 🙄
The spring is bent on the right side strut and the suggestion is the new "quick strut" replacement of them both.
Do the fuel pump and radiator hoses, have the battery tested at one of the "chain" parts stores...that'll keep the car on the road... Do the other things as you see fit.
And as the others have said, find a good independent shop.

And when do you let an old car go? My thought is when it's something to repair every week and the car isn't dependable anymore.

The PA is a great car, smooth ride and an excellent drivetrain.
You mean a place like Autozone or something for the battery?I can do that!!

Thanks y'all!!

I bought a new fuel pump today on eBay for $45. Gotta see how much it is to install.
 
As all have mentioned, these are all items that need attention as a car ages and is by no means a reason to dump it. If you like doing your own work, most of it is doable by yourself and there's almost always someone here to help out! You can get an entire control arm replacement with ball joints and bushings for a good price @ rock auto... in fact, you can get many new parts very reasonable from them! "loaded" struts are usually on special for us lucky P.A. guys.... Half-shafts are pretty cheap too. Drain and fill with DEX6 and a filter and be done with it!
 
The spring is bent on the right side strut and the suggestion is the new "quick strut" replacement of them both.
:bsflag:

More bad advice. Springs do not "bend" under any circumstance. The may eventually weaken after many years, but I have never seen a "bent" spring. Been in this business for over 50-yrs!
I bought a new fuel pump today on eBay for $45. Gotta see how much it is to install.
I would not expect that fuel pump to last more than a year.
 
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I bought a new fuel pump today on eBay for $45. Gotta see how much it is to install.

Save up to get an AC-Delco fuel pump, because those el-cheapo ones on eBay don't last. It'll hold you over just expect to replace it in a year or so.
 
Make sure you change out the fuel filter when you put your new pump in.
 
Thanks guys. All info is noted and appreciated.
 
About the "trans flush," I don't recommend it. If you're going to do anything to the transmission, you need to replace the fluid and filter the old fashioned way. The fluid doesn't wear out that badly, it's the trash that gets in the fluid from wear and tear. If you 'flush' these transmissions, the sediment gets spread all inside the transmission, plus, the filter itself isn't changed. The sediment gets stirred up, and clogs the fliter, restricting flow.

GM recommends the fluid being changed every 100k miles, and most owners never do that. In 2005, GM upgraded from Dexron III to Dexron VI. Dexron VI is a superior fluid, that works much better. My 1994 Park Avenue was having shifting problems after I "flushed" my transmission, and I eventually changed the fluid to Dexron VI and changed the fliter. I cleaned all of the sediment out of the pan when I changed the fluid and filter, and it shifted much more smoothly.
 
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As for the rest of the car, it depends on how well you like the vehicle. My 1994 was passed down to me by my father. He bought it with money he was given by his mother in law, who he cared for very much. He drove it less than 5000 miles a year when he had it, so it only had 110k on it when I got it 3 years ago. Unfortunately, that's when things start going wrong on most vehicles. I've replaced several items on this vehicle, but since I do my own mechanic work for the most part, it's still works out cheaper than a car payment. Mine has 160k on it, and I wouldn't be afraid to drive to South Florida from here in NC tomorrow if I had to.

I have new struts up front, and I eliminated the air suspension in the back, and replaced it with a standard suspension, and I have new Michelins all the way around on it, so it rides and handles like a new car.

I've worked out all of the other problems I've had with the electrical system (I hope) so the engine runs smoothly, and the accessories work properly. The only thing that doesn't work is the A/C, and I don't have $1000 to replace the compressor, dryer, etc to get it working again, so it's going to stay non functioning for now.

Long story short, if you like the car, keep it. Replace the things that need replacing as you can afford them. Keep in mind any repairs you make to an older vehicle like this aren't going to increase the resale value. They're for you and you alone. Plan on 'driving the value' out of those repairs. If you don't think the repairs are worth keeping the car, then trade it in on something else you either like better, or is more reliable. Keep in mind 'newer' doesn't always mean 'more reliable.'

Just my two cents.
 
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As for the rest of the car, it depends on how well you like the vehicle. My 1994 was passed down to me by my father. He bought it with money he was given by his mother in law, who he cared for very much. He drove it less than 5000 miles a year when he had it, so it only had 110k on it when I got it 3 years ago. Unfortunately, that's when things start going wrong on most vehicles. I've replaced several items on this vehicle, but since I do my own mechanic work for the most part, it's still works out cheaper than a car payment. Mine has 160k on it, and I wouldn't be afraid to drive to South Florida from here in NC tomorrow if I had to.

I have new struts up front, and I eliminated the air suspension in the back, and replaced it with a standard suspension, and I have new Michelins all the way around on it, so it rides and handles like a new car.

I've worked out all of the other problems I've had with the electrical system (I hope) so the engine runs smoothly, and the accessories work properly. The only thing that doesn't work is the A/C, and I don't have $1000 to replace the compressor, dryer, etc to get it working again, so it's going to stay non functioning for now.

Long story short, if you like the car, keep it. Replace the things that need replacing as you can afford them. Keep in mind any repairs you make to an older vehicle like this aren't going to increase the resale value. They're for you and you alone. Plan on 'driving the value' out of those repairs. If you don't think the repairs are worth keeping the car, then trade it in on something else you either like better, or is more reliable. Keep in mind 'newer' doesn't always mean 'more reliable.'

Just my two cents.

Thank you. I appreciate that, as well as the other comments. Since I'm not mechanical , I have to look for cheaper ways to get stuff done on the car. I love "Baby Girl" and she's the first car I've bought with my own money ($2,100), so she's got some value. Besides the brake lines going out and this other stuff, nothing major has happened. I do think she's a good car.

Question about the suspension: When did you know it was time to let the air suspension go and replace it with the regular stuff? I'm not sure if my compressor is out or anything, but I can hear it working, just seems like it's working for 5 minutes or so. Does yours still drive real smooth without it?

My biggest concern is now changing this transmission fluid, as I don't want to create problems for it in the future. I plan on having this car for as long as I'm supposed to.
 
Changing the transmission fluid yourself without a lift is not really difficult just messy. Remove the oil pan of the transmission (21 bolts I think), let the fluid come out and put in a a new filter. Use a new oil pan gasket to prevent any leaks. Then fill it up with Dexron VI.
 
Changing the transmission fluid yourself without a lift is not really difficult just messy. Remove the oil pan of the transmission (21 bolts I think), let the fluid come out and put in a a new filter. Use a new oil pan gasket to prevent any leaks. Then fill it up with Dexron VI.

Sounds simple enough. Thanks 🙂
 
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