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Has anyone replace their Tourx wheels?

There are some mighty cool looking wheels set ups on this thread and I'm even more convinced the wheels from my vert with some 245/50R-18s are gonna look great
 
I wonder if these can fit our TourX?

19' Chrysler Wheels OEM 19x7.5, Bolt: 5x115 ET:55

The difference is offset. I have ET40 Center Bore: 70.2 mm and Chrysler's are ET55 Center Bore: 71.5 mm

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I wonder if these can fit our TourX?

19' Chrysler Wheels OEM 19x7.5, Bolt: 5x115 ET:55

The difference is offset. I have ET40 Center Bore: 70.2 mm and Chrysler's are ET55 Center Bore: 71.5 mm

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A 55mm offset will move the inside lip of the wheel/tire closer to the suspension. It's better to get a lower offset than higher for clearance issues, as well as looks. Tucking the wheels doesn't look good, imo.
 
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A 55mm offset will move the inside lip of the wheel/tire closer to the suspension. It's better to get a lower offset than higher for clearance issues, as well as looks. Tucking the wheels doesn't look good, imo.
Agreed. It'll look a little goofy. You'll want spacers for that setup. I looked into those wheels a while back but gave them a hard pass due to those specs.
 
Ran it through the calculator and forgot the width is not 1:1 with offset, so the face does move in quite a bit. What I would be more concerned about is what size tire you want to run. Most tires that are 235 wide in a 19 will want 8" wide rims.
 
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I wonder if these can fit our TourX?

19' Chrysler Wheels OEM 19x7.5, Bolt: 5x115 ET:55

The difference is offset. I have ET40 Center Bore: 70.2 mm and Chrysler's are ET55 Center Bore: 71.5 mm

View attachment 26790

View attachment 26791

View attachment 26792
This is the tire/wheel upsize calculator I used before I bought my setup. It'll tell you everything if you have fitment questions.
 
I don't think the outside surface of the wheel will change much. There is a 15mm difference between offsets which is close to half an inch...the same difference in the wheel width. What I would be more concerned about is what size tire you want to run. Most tires that are 235 wide in a 19 will want 8" wide rims.
It'll move the wheel to around 3/8" closer to the suspension. It's probably acceptable but it will also tuck the wheel and a 235 wide tire is ok for a 7.5" wheel.
 
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Thanks, guys for your feedback. 🚀

Thanks for sharing this great tool Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets

What about bolt pattern 5x115 vs 5x114.3, The difference is just 0.7 mm. I heard that someone fitted Tourx with 5x114.3 wheels
 
Thanks, guys for your feedback. 🚀

Thanks for sharing this great tool Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets

What about bolt pattern 5x115 vs 5x114.3, The difference is just 0.7 mm. I heard that someone fitted Tourx with 5x114.3 wheels
Bolt pattern I'm not too sure about. You might need an adapter?
 
If you like the Chrysler wheels, the 20x8 inch version for their RWD are the same spoke design but offset is +24 which will bring the wheel out farther. All the 19in are for the AWD models and use the higher offset.
I've used the 5x114.3 wheels several times on 5x115 GM and Chrysler cars. Just make sure you use hub centric rings to insure a good fit and eliminate any unwanted vibration.
 
Thanks, guys for your feedback. 🚀

Thanks for sharing this great tool Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets

What about bolt pattern 5x115 vs 5x114.3, The difference is just 0.7 mm. I heard that someone fitted Tourx with 5x114.3 wheels
No, do not go there.
 
If you like the Chrysler wheels, the 20x8 inch version for their RWD are the same spoke design but offset is +24 which will bring the wheel out farther. All the 19in are for the AWD models and use the higher offset.
I've used the 5x114.3 wheels several times on 5x115 GM and Chrysler cars. Just make sure you use hub centric rings to insure a good fit and eliminate any unwanted vibration.
TourX does not have a lot of excess suspension and travel wheel well space. So if you go wild with wheels and tire, plan never to hit any bumps with the wheels cut hard right or left.
 
No, do not go there.
I have run this set-up of 114.3 on 115 for years and thousands of miles under all kinds of conditions without even the smallest evidence of trouble or failure. This is one of those endless debates that never dies, fueled by all manner of theory and conflicting engineer opinion. On another board, one member asked for ANY physical evidence whatsoever of failure caused by running said wheel pattern combo. Not a single owner among hundreds of active members were able to post even a story of said failure. They bally-hooed for 20+ pages back and forth and proved nothing. Unlike the debate over drilled/slotted rotors where plenty of evidence was posted of heat/stress cracks around holes after heavy use on track days.

Hub centric rings should be used with any wheel change that involves a different bore size to prevent vibration. That vibration comes from tightening the lugs and the wheel shifting to be centric on that stud. A machinist at the plant where I retired from (who I consulted before I bought the first set of 114.3 Mustang wheels) showed me multiple examples of .5 to .7mm of tolerance on several couplings for high speed electric pump motors. He assured me those coupling face much higher speed and stress than my car wheels would. Check the tolerance on factory wheels and studs. The shank on the factory lug nut is easily triple that measurement and more.

I installed a set of Primax aftermarket aluminum wheels on my wife's Aztek with this same combo. Those wheels have seen two sets of tires and over 8 years of service with no issue of any kind. Would I trust that on my wife's car if I didn't think it was safe?
 
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I have run this set-up of 114.3 on 115 for years and thousands of miles under all kinds of conditions without even the smallest evidence of trouble or failure. This is one of those endless debates that never dies, fueled by all manner of theory and conflicting engineer opinion. On another board, one member asked for ANY physical evidence whatsoever of failure caused by running said wheel pattern combo. Not a single owner among hundreds of active members were able to post even a story of said failure. They bally-hooed for 20+ pages back and forth and proved nothing. Unlike the debate over drilled/slotted rotors where plenty of evidence was posted of heat/stress cracks around holes after heavy use on track days.

Hub centric rings should be used with any wheel change that involves a different bore size to prevent vibration. That vibration comes from tightening the lugs and the wheel shifting to be centric on that stud. A machinist at the plant where I retired from (who I consulted before I bought the first set of 114.3 Mustang wheels) showed me multiple examples of .5 to .7mm of tolerance on several couplings for high speed electric pump motors. He assured me those coupling face much higher speed and stress than my car wheels would. Check the tolerance on factory wheels and studs. The shank on the factory lug nut is easily triple that measurement and more.

I installed a set of Primax aftermarket aluminum wheels on my wife's Aztek with this same combo. Those wheels have seen two sets of tires and over 8 years of service with no issue of any kind. Would I trust that on my wife's car if I didn't think it was safe?

Great insight knowledge! 1604168744153.webp
 
Photoshopped a few wheel/tire setups I'd be interested in running. The bronze and white wheels are Curva C300's and the black wheels are from the '09-13 Corvette C6 ZR1 (although the Momo Revenges and ADV.1 ADV10.0 M.V1 CS Series are pretty similar).

While these drawings aren't to any specifications, I'd probably with go with 19x9 ET+20 on 255/40r19 with H&R lowering springs.
 

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Just my opinion, but I'd go with a +30 or +35 offset. If you lower and go wider along with moving the wheel out farther, you might rub over bumps or sharp turns. I think this was mentioned in previous posts but I could be wrong. Either way, to me the +20 feels like pushing the limit but that will be your choice. Its your ride, do what puts that smile on your face.
 
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