'93 Park Avenue Resto

[93ParkAveUltra]

I’d start by cleaning your ABS sensors. They attract magnetic dust, and when there’s enough on them they stop working.

As for your surging RPM, does your O2 sensor have a clip that attaches the ground wire to the housing of the sensor? If so, the connection might be bad and cleaning it might help.

View attachment 46216

Alright. Sorry for the delay I had to wait on parts. Found a small vaccum leak from the oil cap and broken dipstick. Got both of those sorted as well as the IAC valve replaced. Much improved. Sitting around 900 but still intermittent misfiring. Every few minutes it will "hunt" between 800 and 1200 rpm. I have a new O2 sensor coming but I am now leaning towards a MAF sensor even though it looks good. Feels like I'm getting to the end of the misfire road. Thoughts?

 

[Cerb]

Alright. Sorry for the delay I had to wait on parts. Found a small vaccum leak from the oil cap and broken dipstick. Got both of those sorted as well as the IAC valve replaced. Much improved. Sitting around 900 but still intermittent misfiring. Every few minutes it will "hunt" between 800 and 1200 rpm. I have a new O2 sensor coming but I am now leaning towards a MAF sensor even though it looks good. Feels like I'm getting to the end of the misfire road. Thoughts?

You can “test” the MAF by unplugging it before starting the car. The computer should run on fixed settings rather than input from the MAF. It won’t run great, but if the MAF is to blame for the RPM hunting, that at least should stop.

 

[93ParkAveUltra]

You can “test” the MAF by unplugging it before starting the car. The computer should run on fixed settings rather than input from the MAF. It won’t run great, but if the MAF is to blame for the RPM hunting, that at least should stop.

Sorry for the long hiatus! Spent a few weeks in the hospital with mom and our newborn. I tried running it without the MAF plugged in while cold and hot. Didn't seem to make a difference other than the CEL coming on. I've put another 3k miles on it since and it's gotten better but still happens sporadically. I also have a technical question. I've seen on some forums where people swap the Front Diff Carrier Assembly with a 2:84 instead of a stock 3:03. Would I need to do anything to the PCM? Or would it be fine?

 

[93ParkAveUltra]

Hi everyone! I'm back once again and the buick was running marvelously. Until I moved into a new neighborhood with a ton of speed bumps. Both my front struts (original) bit the dust. I replaced them with KYB complete assemblies ( Part#SR4022). Now the camber is way off and its got oversteer pretty bad. To the point where I can't drive it. Manual says camber isn't adjustable. Is this one of those cases where I would have to loosen the lower strut bolts and push it in to correct the camber issue? Or are the parts wrong? I double checked and everything is TIGHT.

 

[GunnyP]

Hi everyone! I'm back once again and the buick was running marvelously. Until I moved into a new neighborhood with a ton of speed bumps. Both my front struts (original) bit the dust. I replaced them with KYB complete assemblies ( Part#SR4022). Now the camber is way off and its got oversteer pretty bad. To the point where I can't drive it. Manual says camber isn't adjustable. Is this one of those cases where I would have to loosen the lower strut bolts and push it in to correct the camber issue? Or are the parts wrong? I double checked and everything is TIGHT.

It's been a minute and I don't recall the details. But July 2018 I purchased KYB Shock Absorber and Strut Assembly Front Driver or Passenger Side SR4022 and apparently sought to return them.

​

Thanks for letting us know about the problem you had with this transaction. We're here to help.​

The seller should respond and let you know what to do next. If you don't hear back or can't work things out, you can ask us to step in and help starting on Jul 20, 2018.​

I did not return the struts but recall it was a fitment issue that quickly killed the passenger cv axle bought Aug 1, 2018

Cardone 66-1092 New CV Axle​

and then these two Camber related items in subsequent days:

SPC PERFORMANCE Specialty Products Company 81280 EZ Cam XR 16mm Adjuster Bolt - Pair​

These Cam Adjuster Bolts replaced the upper Knuckle Bolt on both the driver and passenger side. Presumably they were used to achieve the required Camber Alignment as measured with this gauge below.

KATUR Universal Gauge Tool for Car/Truck Magnetic Camber Castor Strut Wheel Alignment Tool for Car(Pack of 1)​

I had a thread about these struts here Loud Clicking After KYB Struts-Plus Install

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

Hi everyone! I'm back once again and the buick was running marvelously. Until I moved into a new neighborhood with a ton of speed bumps. Both my front struts (original) bit the dust. I replaced them with KYB complete assemblies ( Part#SR4022). Now the camber is way off and its got oversteer pretty bad. To the point where I can't drive it. Manual says camber isn't adjustable. Is this one of those cases where I would have to loosen the lower strut bolts and push it in to correct the camber issue? Or are the parts wrong? I double checked and everything is TIGHT.

Do you know how much camber you are out of?
The last two are preferable from a corrosion/strength perspective, but the top would be fine but if you hit speed bumps id defintiely keep it stronger.
also not sure where you heard the front camber wasnt adjustable, its in the manual
Make sure your front caster is proper! If these KYB are different dimensionally, insure the caster is right. The proper way to adjust caster involves drilling and filing the holes on the body to allow them to slot, and it has to be done precisely, so please verify

 

[93ParkAveUltra]

Thank you! I'll try and get it straightened out this weekend! I'm probably gonna order the kit too.

 

[93ParkAveUltra]

View attachment 47504
View attachment 47505
Do you know how much camber you are out of?
The last two are preferable from a corrosion/strength perspective, but the top would be fine but if you hit speed bumps id defintiely keep it stronger.
also not sure where you heard the front camber wasnt adjustable, its in the manualView attachment 47506View attachment 47507View attachment 47508
Make sure your front caster is proper! If these KYB are different dimensionally, insure the caster is right. The proper way to adjust caster involves drilling and filing the holes on the body to allow them to slot, and it has to be done precisely, so please verify

Good news! Got the camber where I need it to be! Drives pretty straight but definitely needs new tires soon. Stubborn ABS light is still on! Tried pulling the codes by jumping terminal A to terminal H on the obd1 connector but no dice. It almost feels like there's no pin in terminal H?

 

[GunnyP]

Good news! Got the camber where I need it to be! Drives pretty straight but definitely needs new tires soon. Stubborn ABS light is still on! Tried pulling the codes by jumping terminal A to terminal H on the obd1 connector but no dice. It almost feels like there's no pin in terminal H?

Jump Terminal A to Terminal B not H

 

[93ParkAveUltra]

Jump Terminal A to Terminal B not H

Jumped A to B for the SES codes. But im trying to pull ABS codes.

 

[GunnyP]

Jumped A to B for the SES codes. But im trying to pull ABS codes.

Apparently, for some GM OBD1 truck models there is a pin at Terminal H that can access ABS codes but H is blank on mine as well.

BuickGirlFromMars provided this video link to determining ABS Codes.

It seems to me that the Terminal A to Terminal B does provide all of the ABS codes but that their interpretation requires access to the Service Manuals ABS codes discussion. For example, as I also have a stubborn ABS light issue, the OBD1 flashed Code 23 which means a bad IAT (Intake Air Temp) on every OBD1 error code list I've seen. However, when one reads the Service Manual ABS Diagnostic Trouble Codes section, this same code 23 also means a bad wheel sensor speed reading. The same proves true of Code 56 which under the Service Manual ABS codes indicates an issue with a short to ground on a specific ABS brake line.

I've been trying to use a program called TunerPro RT with a Moates ALDL (no longer manufactured) to pull codes that require the Tech 1, albeit with limited success. For example, it did signal bad wheel speed sensor on its readout.

Sadly, I haven't had time to use it since 2021 due to fix it or die issues on my vehicle.

 

[93ParkAveUltra]

Apparently, for some GM OBD1 truck models there is a pin at Terminal H that can access ABS codes but H is blank on mine as well.

BuickGirlFromMars provided this video link to determining ABS Codes.

It seems to me that the Terminal A to Terminal B does provide all of the ABS codes but that their interpretation requires access to the Service Manuals ABS codes discussion. For example, as I also have a stubborn ABS light issue, the OBD1 flashed Code 23 which means a bad IAT (Intake Air Temp) on every OBD1 error code list I've seen. However, when one reads the Service Manual ABS Diagnostic Trouble Codes section, this same code 23 also means a bad wheel sensor speed reading. The same proves true of Code 56 which under the Service Manual ABS codes indicates an issue with a short to ground on a specific ABS brake line.

I've been trying to use a program called TunerPro RT with a Moates ALDL (no longer manufactured) to pull codes that require the Tech 1, albeit with limited success. For example, it did signal bad wheel speed sensor on its readout.

Sadly, I haven't had time to use it since 2021 due to fix it or die issues on my vehicle.

Trying to get this thing perfect is definitely requiring more tinkering than I anticipated. Although worth it as I love the vehicle. I hate to chuck parts at it but that may be my only option.

 

[GunnyP]

Trying to get this thing perfect is definitely requiring more tinkering than I anticipated. Although worth it as I love the vehicle. I hate to chuck parts at it but that may be my only option.

Know the feeling! I've an entire trunk full of parts that want installing still as every bushing, sensor, hose, heat exchange device, steel surface and bolt is decaying from age or rust. The entire undercarriage is rusting away. Have to get to welding parts on before all the good metal is gone.

Attached is the Service Manual ABS Diagnostic Trouble Code Guide. Below it the Diagnostic Symptom Guide tells what to do if no DTC are set.

As stated earlier, use this DTC Guide only if the ABS light is on. Otherwise the regular GM OBD1 codes should apply, I reckon. This is my assessment only. Hopefully more experienced minds will chime in.

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

Apparently, for some GM OBD1 truck models there is a pin at Terminal H that can access ABS codes but H is blank on mine as well.

BuickGirlFromMars provided this video link to determining ABS Codes.

It seems to me that the Terminal A to Terminal B does provide all of the ABS codes but that their interpretation requires access to the Service Manuals ABS codes discussion. For example, as I also have a stubborn ABS light issue, the OBD1 flashed Code 23 which means a bad IAT (Intake Air Temp) on every OBD1 error code list I've seen. However, when one reads the Service Manual ABS Diagnostic Trouble Codes section, this same code 23 also means a bad wheel sensor speed reading. The same proves true of Code 56 which under the Service Manual ABS codes indicates an issue with a short to ground on a specific ABS brake line.

I've been trying to use a program called TunerPro RT with a Moates ALDL (no longer manufactured) to pull codes that require the Tech 1, albeit with limited success. For example, it did signal bad wheel speed sensor on its readout.

Sadly, I haven't had time to use it since 2021 due to fix it or die issues on my vehicle.

A clone tech 2 or the tech2win software can diagnose the 1993 model year you just need an adapter for it, my clone tech 2 came with it, tech2win and cables may but possibly need to buy separate

LeSabre & Park Avenue​

1. Connect Tech 1 scan tester to Data Link Connector (DLC). Connector is located under left side of instrument panel, right of steering column. Follow scan tester manufacturer's instructions to retrieve stored fault codes.
2. If multiple codes are displayed, diagnose codes in the order displayed by Tech 1 scan tester. See ABS/TCS FAULT CODES (LESABRE & PARK AVENUE) table.
3. After repairs are complete, follow scan tester manufacturer's instructions to clear all stored fault codes

 

[ultraLIGHTbeam]

Good afternoon,

I wanted to provide some assistance to you and also ask for your help. I am looking to determine what code 53 is. Neither the service manual or online resource I use has information regarding what it could be. Car runs fine I am just looking to get the light off the dash.

Free Service Manual for the 1993 Buick Park Avenue Ultra V6-3.8L SC VIN 1 | Operation CHARM

Online search says it could be high voltage, or an EGR fault, or a security system fault. Any advice or commentary is appreciated. Autozone check says charging and battery system is fine, about to clean the EGR up next.

 

[93ParkAveUltra]

Hi everyone! Haven't had issues for a while, but here I am! Put on a new Delphi MAF sensor the other day because the old one was dirty. While driving suddenly the "SES" light came on. Nothing changed. Then when I went to accelerate from a stoplight it misfired horribly and had no power. I have a code 34 for a MAP sensor. I can't find where this car even has one. Any insight would be much appreciated.

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

Hi everyone! Haven't had issues for a while, but here I am! Put on a new Delphi MAF sensor the other day because the old one was dirty. While driving suddenly the "SES" light came on. Nothing changed. Then when I went to accelerate from a stoplight it misfired horribly and had no power. I have a code 34 for a MAP sensor. I can't find where this car even has one. Any insight would be much appreciated.

Its attached to the vacuum lines, look for it

The vacuum line is probably broken or the sensor issues... you can also CLEAN your maf. your map is critical

 

[93ParkAveUltra]

Its attached to the vacuum lines, look for it

The vacuum line is probably broken or the sensor issues... you can also CLEAN your maf. your map is critical

Either I'm dumb or blind or both. I can't find a MAP sensor anywhere...

The MAF that was on it was 10 years old from autozone. So I figured why not replace it with a good one. The problem is, I've put 3 different Delphi MAF sensors on it from RockAuto and they all do the same thing. Runs well for a day or two. Then runs like dogwater and won't accelerate and misfires horribly. CEL comes on and throws a 34 code.

It runs perfectly fine when I put the 10 year old AZ sensor back in. What am I missing here? Is there a relearn process?

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

Either I'm dumb or blind or both. I can't find a MAP sensor anywhere...

The MAF that was on it was 10 years old from autozone. So I figured why not replace it with a good one. The problem is, I've put 3 different Delphi MAF sensors on it from RockAuto and they all do the same thing. Runs well for a day or two. Then runs like dogwater and won't accelerate and misfires horribly. CEL comes on and throws a 34 code.

It runs perfectly fine when I put the 10 year old AZ sensor back in. What am I missing here? Is there a relearn process?

The map is on a vacuum line probably on the back of the engine. Maybe flat

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

Either I'm dumb or blind or both. I can't find a MAP sensor anywhere...

The MAF that was on it was 10 years old from autozone. So I figured why not replace it with a good one. The problem is, I've put 3 different Delphi MAF sensors on it from RockAuto and they all do the same thing. Runs well for a day or two. Then runs like dogwater and won't accelerate and misfires horribly. CEL comes on and throws a 34 code.

It runs perfectly fine when I put the 10 year old AZ sensor back in. What am I missing here? Is there a relearn process?

Is there oil in your intake