'93 Park Avenue Resto

Can you show me closer on the belt like directly top down and also the ribs up close.

And your battery … unacceptable. I’ll post why you need to fix that
So we replaced the valve covers as well as the oil pan gasket due to a massive oil leak. At the same time I did replace both belts as the alternator had to come off anyways. It did not have these running issues beforehand. I disconnected the battery before doing all this.
 
So we replaced the valve covers as well as the oil pan gasket due to a massive oil leak. At the same time I did replace both belts as the alternator had to come off anyways. It did not have these running issues beforehand. I disconnected the battery before doing all this.
can you find the tensioner adjustment marks on both tensioners, but first start with the one for the supercharger belt.
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Can you show me a video of the belt drive while idling? and can you, while the car is idling, play with the throttle by hand to successfully rev over 3000? Im ruling out throttle cable issue by asking that
 
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See this ground? thats not a good ground. Your ground is most definitely at least playing some issue here. here, as well as under your ICM brakcket (less than a foot away) is a ring terminal that is on the bracket. You need to take them off , clean them, and you need to change your negative battery connection. Ill show you how.

Have an oreillies or other auto store?
Pickup a brass/copper marine terminal like this


Amazon.com order something like this

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...ery-terminal-charging-posts-2-pack/709341_0_0 something like this too

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you basically clean the side post of the battery, install the screw in post adapter. Then, you need to install the battery cable onto the marine terminal stud. To do this properly, you need to file some of the material off the side post (the little tangs that "bite" into the side post" so its flat. To get around that momentarily, place the flat side against the poist, and run the wingnut down onto the side with the tangs, a washer may help if it doesnt feel secure.

This will be a great step in diagnosing your issue, to me your issue sounds electrical. And regardless of whether it is or not, you NEED to address that ground.
 
can you find the tensioner adjustment marks on both tensioners, but first start with the one for the supercharger belt.
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What exactly am I looking for? I assumed they were self tensioning and did not look for any marks when I installed the belts. I'll address the battery tomorrow. I have an oreillys up the road. The video would be too large to upload but I can Rev it all the way out in neutral and park with seemingly no issues. I drove it again and it does have a rough idle and misfire below 2k.
 
What exactly am I looking for? I assumed they were self tensioning and did not look for any marks when I installed the belts. I'll address the battery tomorrow. I have an oreillys up the road. The video would be too large to upload but I can Rev it all the way out in neutral and park with seemingly no issues. I drove it again and it does have a rough idle and misfire below 2k.
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Did you touch the ignition wires or the spark plugs in any of your work on it? to me it sounds ignition possibly. Can you tell me how it goes about stopping to rev past 3k, does it chop, shake, flash the engine light, etc.
The tension marks should be on the round part of the tensioner (lower one) i sent you a diagram above in my previous messages but i screenshotted the part that shows where it is here in this message

They are self tensioning, but they only work in a short range of belt sizes, and if they are on the "stops" they wont do their job.
 
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Did you touch the ignition wires or the spark plugs in any of your work on it? to me it sounds ignition possibly. Can you tell me how it goes about stopping to rev past 3k, does it chop, shake, flash the engine light, etc.
The tension marks should be on the round part of the tensioner (lower one) i sent you a diagram above in my previous messages but i screenshotted the part that shows where it is here in this message

They are self tensioning, but they only work in a short range of belt sizes, and if they are on the "stops" they wont do their job.
I changed both the plugs and wires as I did the valve covers. You can hear the supercharger and engine both make noise as if they're bouncing off of a Rev limiter. No lights flashing. It shudders when it does this. Not violently bucking.
 
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I changed both the plugs and wires as I did the valve covers. You can hear the supercharger and engine both make noise as if they're bouncing off of a Rev limiter. No lights flashing. It shudders when it does this. Not violently bucking.
what firing order did you put the wires on? And can you show me a picture of the plugs you removed and the current layout of your wires/plugs (so a picture of your engine bay basically)
 
what firing order did you put the wires on? And can you show me a picture of the plugs you removed and the current layout of your wires/plugs (so a picture of your engine bay basically)
I put them on exactly as they came off. The ones I bought were labeled. I threw the spark plugs away. But i can get you a picture in the morning!
 
Can you remove the engine cover
 
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Your wires are incorrectly routed, #1 (the lowest on the coils) should exit where your #5 exits, the #3 exits where #5 should and #1 takes way too long of a trip to get where it goes

What brand are these wires? If they are what brand they appear to be, ive had them be bad in the box and they are fragile as far as wires go. A;sp. tje wires cross the paths of other wires too frequently and enough to create a misfire condition by inducing spark on the other wire.

Also I hate to ask, but what happened to your engine oil dipstick and what is shoved into the dipstick opening in place of it
also whats the wiring splices by your EGR all about?
 
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Also I cant be sure of it from the photos but you appear to have cylinder 6 and 2 wires swapped on the back of the engine. but i cant see what the wires do where they travel under the snout/engine cover. so re-laying the wires to be alongside eachother on the wire holders from front to back is a helpful thing to do to ensure they are
 
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Also I cant be sure of it from the photos but you appear to have cylinder 6 and 2 wires swapped on the back of the engine. but i cant see what the wires do where they travel under the snout/engine cover. so re-laying the wires to be alongside eachother on the wire holders from front to back is a helpful thing to do to ensure they are
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Also I cant be sure of it from the photos but you appear to have cylinder 6 and 2 wires swapped on the back of the engine. but i cant see what the wires do where they travel under the snout/engine cover. so re-laying the wires to be alongside eachother on the wire holders from front to back is a helpful thing to do to ensure they are
The wires are NGK they all came labeled. I did them one by one but I will double check to verify. I didn't take the snout off when I did the wires so I just pushed them through the best that I could. I didn't know that crossing them would mess it up that bad. I can go through and redo those. The dipstick handle was glued together when I bought it. It snapped today when I bumped it. I have another in the mail. The egr wires got chewed before I bought it. I drove it 6 hours home from Tennessee like that and it was smooth as butter. I also replaced the pcv valve trying to chase this issue, but no improvement. It's always had a little miss at idle, but everything I've done to tune it up and clean up the oil leaks made it worse.
 
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