-
🔍 Like our community? You can tell Google to show you results from this site more often. Just Click Here and click the empty checkbox on the right side of our name.
Buick Forums - The Buick Owners Group
What's on your mind?
My dad recently ran upon a bard yard full of collectors cars. One of the twelve cars was a '87 GN TTop car. It has been sitting outside exposed to the elements for several years now. Everything is there on the car., it has around 91.xxx miles. Owner says it was parked due to brake problems. It is fair shape, it will need to be restored to suit. I am looking at purchasing the car, can anyone chime in on value. Pics to follow! Thanks, and God bless!
2 Replies
·
5630 views
8
WOW! Lots of work to be done there! How bad is the interior? From the looks of it, you will have your work cut out for you!
My car sat up for about 8-9 years, however it was closed up in a garage the whole time. So it took a small amount of work to get her going again, however it was so so worth it!
I'd say that your best plan of attack is to get her up and running first and foremost. You might check out the TurboBuick forum and look up "Spring Cleaning" as they have a nice write up there that spells out everything that you will need to get her done!
However, for a short list you will need all new belts, hoses, plugs, fuel pump, fuel and cooling system flush, all new fluids, and it'll probably need all new vacuum hoses as well. Although I probably should have, however I didn't keep tabs on mine. But, I would guess that it only cost me about $800 or $900 roughly to do the whole Spring Cleaning Regimen mentioned above. And I'd definitely say get her running first and then work on the cosmetics!
Oh and the first thing that I did was to pull all of the plugs and fill the cylinders with a mixture kroil and marvel mystery oil. And I did so even though I knew my car would not be locked up or the like. In that, I just wanted to lubricate the cylinders and all of that. On yours you might want to remove both valve covers and lubricate everything from the top down! JUST DON'T FORGET TO PULL THE PLUGS BACK OUT AND SPIN HER OVER A FEW TIMES BEFORE YOU TRY TO START THE CAR. In that, you will need to get all of the lube out of there before you do that. Lots of luck to you and post up some progress pics!!!
- - - Updated - - -
- - - Updated - - -
My car sat up for about 8-9 years, however it was closed up in a garage the whole time. So it took a small amount of work to get her going again, however it was so so worth it!
I'd say that your best plan of attack is to get her up and running first and foremost. You might check out the TurboBuick forum and look up "Spring Cleaning" as they have a nice write up there that spells out everything that you will need to get her done!
However, for a short list you will need all new belts, hoses, plugs, fuel pump, fuel and cooling system flush, all new fluids, and it'll probably need all new vacuum hoses as well. Although I probably should have, however I didn't keep tabs on mine. But, I would guess that it only cost me about $800 or $900 roughly to do the whole Spring Cleaning Regimen mentioned above. And I'd definitely say get her running first and then work on the cosmetics!
Oh and the first thing that I did was to pull all of the plugs and fill the cylinders with a mixture kroil and marvel mystery oil. And I did so even though I knew my car would not be locked up or the like. In that, I just wanted to lubricate the cylinders and all of that. On yours you might want to remove both valve covers and lubricate everything from the top down! JUST DON'T FORGET TO PULL THE PLUGS BACK OUT AND SPIN HER OVER A FEW TIMES BEFORE YOU TRY TO START THE CAR. In that, you will need to get all of the lube out of there before you do that. Lots of luck to you and post up some progress pics!!!
- - - Updated - - -
- - - Updated - - -
Staff member
Lead Administrator
0 Replies
·
0 views
After 7 years I am now without a Buick Regal but I have some parts that could be useful to others. Before posting on Facebook group thought I'd give you all a shot at these:
2 steering wheels (stock, not GS) with buttons, from Essence trim so all button options - both in virtually new/very good condition, including the finish on buttons.
After market door handle cups, F and R,
1 set OEM floor mats with Regal on them,
1 set OEM floor mats with Avenir tag on the binding (very discreet)
1 set L & R New rocker panel covers for TourX (matt black plastic, never installed but kind of long so shipping might be pricey),
OEM TourX cross bars with keys, I bought used from owner who said he used them just a few time, I never had a chance to use them, they look pretty new
3D printed cell phone holder that was sold on Etsy for a while from forum member and the console tray from same vendor,
Canvasback full rear liner set for TourX with cargo flap - all black
2 OEM gauge clusters I removed when I swapped to GS cluster.
New gas pedal assembly (kept as spare, never had the issue)
New OEM Fuel door mechanism, newer design without electric lock
I'd prefer to bundle some of these if possible.. The big items like rocker covers and cross bars might be pricey to ship. Pickup or in Central Florida would be preferable.
PM me if interested
2 steering wheels (stock, not GS) with buttons, from Essence trim so all button options - both in virtually new/very good condition, including the finish on buttons.
After market door handle cups, F and R,
1 set OEM floor mats with Regal on them,
1 set OEM floor mats with Avenir tag on the binding (very discreet)
1 set L & R New rocker panel covers for TourX (matt black plastic, never installed but kind of long so shipping might be pricey),
OEM TourX cross bars with keys, I bought used from owner who said he used them just a few time, I never had a chance to use them, they look pretty new
3D printed cell phone holder that was sold on Etsy for a while from forum member and the console tray from same vendor,
Canvasback full rear liner set for TourX with cargo flap - all black
2 OEM gauge clusters I removed when I swapped to GS cluster.
New gas pedal assembly (kept as spare, never had the issue)
New OEM Fuel door mechanism, newer design without electric lock
I'd prefer to bundle some of these if possible.. The big items like rocker covers and cross bars might be pricey to ship. Pickup or in Central Florida would be preferable.
PM me if interested
3 Replies
·
80 views
Staff member
Lead Administrator
We all have those days where we just need a good laugh, so let’s get a dedicated discussion going for exactly that.
The rules are simple: If you see a picture, meme, or comic that makes you laugh, drop it here.
The rules are simple: If you see a picture, meme, or comic that makes you laugh, drop it here.
- Keep it within the forum rules (let's keep the completely Not Safe For Work stuff out of here).
- No politics or heavy drama - this is an escape from all of that!
- Context is optional. Sometimes a weird photo with no explanation is the funniest part.
17 Replies
·
1622 views
^^^Curious, you have to ask?
www.acmetools.com
Permatex High Strength Threadlocker Red
Permatex High Strength Threadlocker Red - 27100
www.acmetools.com
My fuel pump relay has burnt out twice in less then a week. What could be causing it to do that?
9 Replies
·
2211 views
Last fall I bought a 1998 Buick Century with only 57,000 miles from an old relative who rarely drove. The A/C and everything else worked perfectly last fall. But this spring I used the A/C and it wasn't blowing cold. I drove 10 miles home with the AC "on", and the second I get home and put it in park the radiator hose blew off soaking everything with coolant. I'm guessing the small pressure ripple caused the clamp to jump a tooth or something dumb) Nothing was broken, the top radiator hose simply popped off the engine barb. I refilled it and used the same hose, which was in perfect shape.
While trying to diagnose my A/C issues, I confirmed the fans DO turn on when I disconnect the coolant temp probe connector (ECU demands fans when it can't read the probe I've found out by testing). I jumpered the A/C clutch relay and it DOES engage the A/C compressor. The refrigerant has proper pressure (so not a leaked refrigerant issue). I cannot figure out why the ECU will not let the A/C system run. I even installed a new coolant temp sensor into the engine, no change.
The cooling fans never want to come on when the temp gauge goes over 50% (but temp never goes more than say 55% to red, (and evidently they don't come on until it is REALLY hot?), but the fans both work fine when the ECU demands them.
So I've been without A/C all summer. One time we accidentally left the A/C knob on "norm" for 20 minutes which heated up the antifreeze enough to cause a "low coolant" light to flash on the dash. I confirmed there was enough coolant, so I drained half, pulled the antifreeze level sensor, scrubbed the sensor prong itself (just a metal post) and reinstalled and refilled my coolant, burped it, went for a drive, and the low coolant light is ack on even though its full.
Another annoying quirk with this car is no trunk release, ONLY the keyfob button (never experienced that in any car, not even a glove box button). Also, when I push the door's LOCK switch, i have to hit it TWICE, it beeps once as if I have headlights on or something (I don't) and its warning me it doesn't want to lock on the first press... Is this normal behavior for this car?
I do NOT want to pay dealership prices to have this diagnosed, and am hoping someone here has more knowledge than I do, and have some input on my issues here relating to no A/C and heating up the coolant / false low level warnings. I thought I had scored a great condition car, but everything is spiraling down all of a sudden.
While trying to diagnose my A/C issues, I confirmed the fans DO turn on when I disconnect the coolant temp probe connector (ECU demands fans when it can't read the probe I've found out by testing). I jumpered the A/C clutch relay and it DOES engage the A/C compressor. The refrigerant has proper pressure (so not a leaked refrigerant issue). I cannot figure out why the ECU will not let the A/C system run. I even installed a new coolant temp sensor into the engine, no change.
The cooling fans never want to come on when the temp gauge goes over 50% (but temp never goes more than say 55% to red, (and evidently they don't come on until it is REALLY hot?), but the fans both work fine when the ECU demands them.
So I've been without A/C all summer. One time we accidentally left the A/C knob on "norm" for 20 minutes which heated up the antifreeze enough to cause a "low coolant" light to flash on the dash. I confirmed there was enough coolant, so I drained half, pulled the antifreeze level sensor, scrubbed the sensor prong itself (just a metal post) and reinstalled and refilled my coolant, burped it, went for a drive, and the low coolant light is ack on even though its full.
Another annoying quirk with this car is no trunk release, ONLY the keyfob button (never experienced that in any car, not even a glove box button). Also, when I push the door's LOCK switch, i have to hit it TWICE, it beeps once as if I have headlights on or something (I don't) and its warning me it doesn't want to lock on the first press... Is this normal behavior for this car?
I do NOT want to pay dealership prices to have this diagnosed, and am hoping someone here has more knowledge than I do, and have some input on my issues here relating to no A/C and heating up the coolant / false low level warnings. I thought I had scored a great condition car, but everything is spiraling down all of a sudden.
2 Replies
·
229 views
Replaced 2.4 engine 2014 verano having an air lock issue. Runs for 20 min fine then temp gage goes up and down. Appears air is trapped in the system. Any help ? Thanks
0 Replies
·
111 views
Still looking for a solution to replacing the balancer bolt for a 2005 Buick Century 3.1L SE. I've ordered an ARP 120-2501 balancer bolt (says it fits this car) but I'm out of other options. If this doesn't fit, what other options are there?
34 Replies
·
1269 views
C
Here is a link to a Grade 10.9 M12x1.5x45 bolt -
belmetric.com
While it is not TTY, it should be strong enough for your application.
Or, you can order ARP M12x1.5x45 bolts from Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-664-1005?seid=srese1
M12X1.5 OEM Hex Flange Bolt - Steel 10.9 Zinc Flake
Bel-Metric sells metric hardware & specialty automotive supplies worldwide. Visit our website to purchase metric fasteners, nuts, bolts, screws, washers & more.
belmetric.com
While it is not TTY, it should be strong enough for your application.
Or, you can order ARP M12x1.5x45 bolts from Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-664-1005?seid=srese1
S
I do know that at the dealership near by, they reuse those bolts for what it is worth. I also know I have reused them too at our shop with no issue, not to say that it can't happen. All things are possible. However, if a ARP replacement can be found, then that is great. The 3.1L was a very heavily used engine across GMs lineup for several decades, the possibility of there not being a single option makes very little sense. I know that engine was used through and may have been phased out just after the 2005 model year, which I think was the last year before it was replaced by the 3.4L. I think, it's been a minute. All that said, there were millions of those engines and it's variants floating around world wide.
If Dorman does not have one, then making a plea to ARP to produce one specifically for the 3.1L with torque specs should be considered and may take the community to back a representative or just flood their inbox.
I think this is the best alternative. I have heard very little negative stuff about ARP, and there is a decent chance the replacement will not be TTY. A re-useable replacement would be ideal in either case. I don't do wrench work professionally anymore except for myself these days. I do deal in obsolete auto parts though.Here is a link to a Grade 10.9 M12x1.5x45 bolt -
M12X1.5 OEM Hex Flange Bolt - Steel 10.9 Zinc Flake
Bel-Metric sells metric hardware & specialty automotive supplies worldwide. Visit our website to purchase metric fasteners, nuts, bolts, screws, washers & more.
While it is not TTY, it should be strong enough for your application.
Or, you can order ARP M12x1.5x45 bolts from Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-664-1005?seid=srese1
I do know that at the dealership near by, they reuse those bolts for what it is worth. I also know I have reused them too at our shop with no issue, not to say that it can't happen. All things are possible. However, if a ARP replacement can be found, then that is great. The 3.1L was a very heavily used engine across GMs lineup for several decades, the possibility of there not being a single option makes very little sense. I know that engine was used through and may have been phased out just after the 2005 model year, which I think was the last year before it was replaced by the 3.4L. I think, it's been a minute. All that said, there were millions of those engines and it's variants floating around world wide.
If Dorman does not have one, then making a plea to ARP to produce one specifically for the 3.1L with torque specs should be considered and may take the community to back a representative or just flood their inbox.
Chad Cremer
For Sale 86/87/90 Riviera for sale
Testing the waters, In South Dakota, i have a 1986, 1987 - both complete but need work, and a 1990 w rear damage parts car I may be willing to part with. the 86 was my old high school car, and wanted to restore it, but money, time, and well, life has me thinking it may be time to pass them on.
[email protected]
[email protected]
0 Replies
·
99 views
