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Very depressing! 😛A Sad Post
View attachment 50450
I had the same exact problem and Movedon is 100% right. It's the bracket on the back seat which applies pressure on the fuse box, in turn applying pressure on the fuel pump fuse burning them out. You have to cut a piece of the seat bracket off and be weary of having too much weight in that back driver side seat. I burnt 3 fuses in about 3 weeks, and it also almost fried the entire fuse box. I took the fuse box out, and opened it up (which was very difficult to do). There are these little metal clips that hold the prongs to each fuse, that was toast and corroded from the repeated frying of fuses, so I took one out of the good looking clips out of a cigarette lighter that I never used, and put that on the fuel pump fuse spot that was faulty. Those little tiny metal clips were impossible to get so I had to makeshift it. Never happened again..
Although now the car at 79k is blowing smoke out of the tailpipe and i'm worried I have a blown head gasket with misfire cylinder 3 and service stabilitrak codes... Long story short, this car is very poorly designed and I would sell it ASAP before some BS happens to you
Sorry for the long read but I'm going to copy my original post for this to give you some background of exactly what is going on. Thank you for your time!This is all a VERY simple job to do. Had mine in and out in less than three minutes. What year is yours? Mainly meaning, what engine is in it? If a Northstar, the cylinder head bolt issue was MOSTLY fixed by the time it was in these. If is the 3.8, lower intake gaskets are common, and dead easy. If the 3.9...those are great engines. What colour is the smoke?

Replace the fuse blockMy fuel pump relay has burnt out twice in less then a week. What could be causing it to do that?
Diagnosing an HVAC system can be tricky. First, it requires the use of an HVAC manifold gauge set so you can read both the high side and low side pressures. Just because it has "enough" pressure on the low side does not mean that there is enough refrigerant in the system. Secondly, you need a Digital Multi-Meter (DMM) in order to measure voltages and perform resistance/continuity checks to make sure there are no broken wires, defective sensors, etc. Third, you will need electrical schematics for troubleshooting the electrical parts of the HVAC system. Finally, you will need a vacuum pump in order to pump down the system if you find that you have a leak or need to add refrigerant.
R134a systems are charged by weight of refrigerant and not by the pressures measured by the gauge set. The only accurate way to do that is to first evacuate the system, pull a vacuum for a certain period of time in order to ensure their are no leaks, and then recharge it by weight.
If you do not have a set of HVAC gauges, you can "rent" them from most any O'Reilly, AutoZone or Advance/Carquest auto parts store using their loaner specialty tool program. A decent DMM will cost you about $30. The schematics can be obtained for free from Free Car Service Manuals from LEMON Manuals. The vacuum pump can also be obtained for "free" from the various auto part stores.
You could have a bad relay, a bad pressure sensor, etc. Also helpful will be a diagnostic chart which can also be found in the service manuals from Free Car Service Manuals from LEMON Manuals.
Good Luck!
belmetric.com
I think this is the best alternative. I have heard very little negative stuff about ARP, and there is a decent chance the replacement will not be TTY. A re-useable replacement would be ideal in either case. I don't do wrench work professionally anymore except for myself these days. I do deal in obsolete auto parts though.Here is a link to a Grade 10.9 M12x1.5x45 bolt -
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M12X1.5 OEM Hex Flange Bolt - Steel 10.9 Zinc Flake
Bel-Metric sells metric hardware & specialty automotive supplies worldwide. Visit our website to purchase metric fasteners, nuts, bolts, screws, washers & more.belmetric.com
While it is not TTY, it should be strong enough for your application.
Or, you can order ARP M12x1.5x45 bolts from Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-664-1005?seid=srese1
You missed the part about the ARP bolts:I think this is the best alternative. I have heard very little negative stuff about ARP, and there is a decent chance the replacement will not be TTY. A re-useable replacement would be ideal in either case. I don't do wrench work professionally anymore except for myself these days. I do deal in obsolete auto parts though.
I do know that at the dealership near by, they reuse those bolts for what it is worth. I also know I have reused them too at our shop with no issue, not to say that it can't happen. All things are possible. However, if a ARP replacement can be found, then that is great. The 3.1L was a very heavily used engine across GMs lineup for several decades, the possibility of there not being a single option makes very little sense. I know that engine was used through and may have been phased out just after the 2005 model year, which I think was the last year before it was replaced by the 3.4L. I think, it's been a minute. All that said, there were millions of those engines and it's variants floating around world wide.
If Dorman does not have one, then making a plea to ARP to produce one specifically for the 3.1L with torque specs should be considered and may take the community to back a representative or just flood their inbox.
Yes, two separate threads because I hadn't gotten responses until recently - for which I'm thankful, BTW.I don't understand all the hysteria from the OP about one frigging bolt in two different threads here! He has got good advice before, just use the old bolt!
I didn't miss that part. The first line was me agreeing with you on the ARP bolt. ARP has a bolt that is for a Harmonic Balancer on a Ford that matches the specs exactly of the one for a 3.1L, btw.You missed the part about the ARP bolts:
Or, you can order ARP M12x1.5x45 bolts from Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-664-1005?seid=srese1