♚ Regal GS - Brembo Brakes ♚ Master Thread ♚

[MayorMcCheese]

Might not install them but i got them

 

[kranz38]

I'll buy em off u

 

[MayorMcCheese]

I'm still on the fence , shipping has gotta be a lot they weigh 50 pounds together , I put my new brake pads in (OEM Brembos) if the car squeaks after break in period than pads will go in ..if they don't than there yours

 

[Ray364]

Awesome info guys!

Niz, great info as always bro! I'm tired of the new low dust pads they put on the 14 GS from the factory. They start to fade pretty quick. I miss the grab the brembo's had in my SS/TC. But to get that feeling back I'm going to have to go to the old OEM pads. I hand wash the car weekly so I think I can deal with higher dust producing pads if it means better performance in stopping this 3600lb behemoth.

Hi Cuba,

I sent you a private message. Please check your Inbox.

Thanks!

 

[jamosregal]

Quick question: I have a 2014 GS, which brake pads are on my car? I have about 15K on it so far, and have the squeal, but just at start / very cold weather. I'm going to make a guess that I have the low dust pad ,and not the "race" ones on there, as I've not had any significant brake dust issues / accumulation.

Thanks all!

 

[cubaniche]

Quick question: I have a 2014 GS, which brake pads are on my car? I have about 15K on it so far, and have the squeal, but just at start / very cold weather. I'm going to make a guess that I have the low dust pad ,and not the "race" ones on there, as I've not had any significant brake dust issues / accumulation.

Thanks all!

Yes, 14+ uses the revised PN, which are the low dust pads

 

[ZoomZoom Diva]

Yes, 14+ uses the revised PN, which are the low dust pads

That leaves me with 2 questions at this point. The first is whether the old original ones would fit. The second is whether there is any point to using the old original ones, as the 2014+ GS models I have seen tested stop in the same distances as the older GS models tested.

 

[jamosregal]

That leaves me with 2 questions at this point. The first is whether the old original ones would fit. The second is whether there is any point to using the old original ones, as the 2014+ GS models I have seen tested stop in the same distances as the older GS models tested.

Both Great questions, and thanks Cubaniche 🙂

 

[kranz38]

So with needing some news pads and understanding what Niz has said .. I am looking at brake pads from the Camaro ZL1

ive been on the camaro forum and the consencious is HAWK Ceramic they produce less dust and seem to brake as good or better than OEM pads.. but something doesnt add up .. after some googleing and reviewing what Niz said I found out

Camaro ZL1 features an advanced track-capable braking system, developed in conjunction with Brembo. Large 14.6-inch (370 mm) two-piece front rotors have six-piston calipers; the 14.4-inch (365 mm) rear rotors have four-piston calipers.


THAN I looked up the GS 2014
2.0L (GS): 13.6 / 345 vented; four-piston, aluminum Brembo caliper
So the 13' and 14' have different sized rotors

and than the 2013 GS

Brake rotor diameter – front
(in / mm):
14.0 / 355 vented; four-piston aluminum Brembo caliper

Than a Normal Camaro SS 2013

Rotor diameter, front (in / mm):
LS, LT: 12.64 / 321
SS: 14 / 355
Rotor diameter, rear (in / mm):
LS, LT: 12.4 / 315
SS: 14.4 / 365

So the ZL1 has different rotors .. I dont know if that affects the brake pads but just knowing we share the same size calipers and rotors as a Camaro SS .. its what I would look up when shopping for pads
and the Pontiac G8 GXP matches with 14.0 inch rotors

So if everything adds up with the GS and the SS both having 4 piston brembo calipers and 14 inch rotors these are the pads id buy
http://marylandspeed.com/hawk-perfo...e-pads-pair-2010-camaro-ss-62l-v8-p-3100.html

If everyone on the Camaro Forum love the Hawk Ceramic pads I dont see why the GS owners wouldnt love them , Your talking 270 Hp compared to 420 HP?

so it looks like we have 12.4 on the rear?
i need to match my front ... going to order these is that is true?
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/s...GS/4_Cyl_2-dot-0L/P15AR82146XPR.html?loc=Rear

 

[MayorMcCheese]

12.4 yeah is correct for the rears

 

[dmr02]

I know this post is a little old, but for us 14+ guys since I am starting too look at our options, you can use an OE pad from a '13 GS as we all know...but the issue with the rotors being different from '13 to '14 doesn't seem to be true, I had the guys in the parts department at work look into it and they are saying that although the part #s are different the system says that '13 rotor P/N can be used if you don't have '14 P/N in stock

I had to look into it because I am looking at some cross drilled rotors and stoptech doesn't make them yet for a '14+ so I figured I could just order the ones for a '13

 

[Walt G]

Last time I tracked my car I must have stopped with the rotors still hot and left pad imprints (see pic) and the resulting so-called 'warped rotor' feel. So, it was time for new rotors and I decided to try a different pad since I really don't like reusing old pads with a new rotor (20,000 miles on the C-max pads I had in there for daily use... the pad imprints happened at the track with the original GS pads installed). I didn't have any real complaints with the C-max. Lower 'bite' for sure than the original 12'GS pads, but no dust and pretty good overall performance.

I decided to try Power Stop Z23 pads this time. They were cheap enough that I figured if I hated them I'd just toss them out and try something else ($42 from Rockauto). I also ordered Centric C-tek Standard rotors from the Rock ($37 each). The rotor looks identical to the OE rotors. I guess time will tell if the metallurgy is up to the task.

I am impressed so far with the quality of the Power Stop kit. Unlike the C-max kit, the Power Stop kit came with new pad retaining pins and that spring steel piece that holds the pins in place, plus a little tube of high temp lube. Nice complete kit.

The swap went smoothly. The big bolts that hold the calipers on are 'torque to yield' as has been mentioned in other threads. The four bolts cost me $18 and change from the local Buick parts counter (full retail price... I should have brought him a doughnut... I've found most parts guys give a doughnut discount). Picture shows the new and old bolt, so these are definitely the right ones.

I was worried that the little screw that retains the rotor in place in the factory would be stuck, but it came right out. The rotors were stuck to the hubs, but a few smacks with a hammer between the studs and they both popped right off.

I like to measure disk run out, just to make sure all is well (see picture). The specification is 0.002" max. I measured 0.001" and 0.0015" on mine, so good to go.

I can't get my jack under the GS when the car is on the ground, so I included a picture of the small wood 'ramps' I made in case anyone else has that problem. They give enough clearance for my jack to get under the car, and I've also found that the ramps alone provide enough clearance to reach the drain plug for oil changes.

I'll report back on how I like these pads once I've driven them for a while.

 

[Harshman]

Thanks Walt. Gald you are not being rude hoarding the information😛

 

[billy mild]

I like the stock pads on my 2013 Regal GS. I have about 33,000 miles on the car. The brake pads have started to make a little noise. Can you replace the pads without doing the rotors? What pads are not $400 that give decent performance. My wife mostly drives the car but I still want to stop like it did stock.

 

[IndyGS]

I replaced the front pads without replacing the rotors the first time around and had zero issues. But they are definitely going to need replaced this time. I too am digging through the threads to find something that has comparable performance without the comparable ding to my wallet. I found another thread recommending the Hawk HB453F.585 HPS.

 

[Walt G]

I switched to Powerstop Z23 compound ($42 from RockAuto) about two months ago. I wanted to give them a little time before posting a review.

So far, I've been impressed with them. The kit was very complete (even came with new Brembo 'pins' that hold the pads in). Break in went well and my impression so far is that they have about the initial bite of the original pads (more than the Autozone C-Maxx pads I was running). I doubt they have the high temperature performance of the original pads or a higher end pad.

This summer, when I do track days, I'm swapping in Carbotech XP10's... I'll do a separate review on those once I run them, but I expect high dust, high noise, but incredible performance.

But back to the Powerstops. It's harder to judge 'dust' during the winter when the entire car tends to stay pretty grubby, but it seems the dust is quite low.

I do get a squeal out of them when cold, and by that, I mean the first stop on them when it is below freezing out. After that, they stay warm enough to not make any further noise, but it's still an annoyance that I never had with the original pads or the C-Maxx Golds. That first below freezing stop is full-on city bus squeal.

BTW: the reason I had to replace the C-Maxx pads was not the fault of the pads... I left bad pad imprints on my rotors last time I did a track day (with the original pads installed). That resulted in a pulsation that did not go away, so I needed new rotors. I don't like to put old pads onto a new rotor.

I know when the pad imprints happened... a Mustang went off track at the end of the front straight. With already hot brakes, I had to go from 105 mph to a dead stop and stay stopped for maybe 10 or 15 seconds while this dude got turned around and back on track. I change my rear rotors (and pads) this coming week with the same Z23 compound as they also have bad pad imprints.

 

[nizerims]

To the best of my knowledge the design of the GS BREMBO calipers changed for the 2014 model. The first time I had the front wheels off, I was in the wheel well cleaning and something caught my eye..... I didn't say anything on the forum because I wasn't positive that my suspicions were correct.

As You guys know; on the 2012 and 2013 GS you can punch out the caliper pins, remove the brake pad spring, and wiggle the brake pads out without having to remove the caliper...... It just didn't look like this was going to be possible on my 2014.

A few months went by and thought about it again while flipping through the 2014 service manual. The pictures in the brake section of the service manual show the (older design) calipers I had on my 2012; and for Front Disk Pad Replacement the service manual says "remove the caliper pins, remove the brake pad spring, fully seat the caliper pistons into the caliper bores and the pads will slide out".



The next time I had a wheel off I went through those steps to see if I could remove the brake pads....... "NO GO"....... I used a brake spoon to push the pads away from the rotor and slide the caliper pistons to get them as close to home bore as I could get; without removing the caliper..... I went real easy on them because I refuse to put any serious angular pressure on the pistons...... I went as far as removing the rotor bolt (the bolt that holds the rotor to the hub) to see if I could wiggle the rotor, and maybe that would allow me enough room to remove a brake pad... NOPE!



SO, as of MAY 27'th 2016, I'm going on record saying that you can't remove the front brake pads in a 2014+ Regal GS with the updated BREMBO calipers, without removing the rotors................................. (I tried,,I couldn't do it)

*****If someone proves my finding erroneous and posts pictures showing the tools you used and how you did it.... I will buy you a pizza!*****
















In the past I've used brake spoons and the 'ole screwdriver between the pad and rotor gimmick, but how are you guys carefully seating the pistons into their bore? (without gouging the pad or rotor).....Do you have a tool I don't know about?

I have this 4 piston caliper tool, and a few different brake spoons.






Hook me up with some tool info and I'll show you my new favorite.....
.......cool tool, so you don't run low on brake fluid while bleeding. Mityvac MVA6832










DON'T YOU DARE outbid me on some 2012 GS calipers! 😉

 

[kgoebz]

Just redid my brakes today at work. New OEM AC Delco front and rear coated rotors and new OEM rear AC Delco pads (the actual OE ones, not Delco replacements) and replacement front Hawk HPS 5 front pads. So far they seem to be bedding in ok. Had a bit of pulsation when hot earlier but it seems to have gone away for the moment so I'll need to monitor that (worst case send the rotors back to my supplier at work and throw another set on there).

I plan on ordering some OEM replacement Brembo pads (it's between them and the Hawk DTC-70s) for use on track days. I kept my old brake parts to use in the winter since they were still decent and the rear pads were ok (backings were getting a bit sketchy but will be fine in winter). Kind of a pain to switch rotors and all for winter, but the amount of salt we get coupled with the fairly open 5 spoke winter rims I run means they get pretty beat up over the winter.

Also changed the brake fluid several weeks back after boiling the previous stuff at the track. ATE Typ200 DOT4. Seems to work well. Can't tell anymore if I'm crazy or not since I can't tell 100% if my pedal feel is back to where it was before boiling it (after new brakes and all). Probably paranoia I suppose...lol

Oh, and my brembo logo is wearing off the driver front caliper pretty nice...

 

[Walt G]

In the past I've used brake spoons and the 'ole screwdriver between the pad and rotor gimmick, but how are you guys carefully seating the pistons into their bore? (without gouging the pad or rotor).....Do you have a tool I don't know about?

I've found with my '12 that I can just give the old pads a gentle squeeze using my thumbs on those little pad 'ears' where the pins go through and my fingers behind the caliper to push the pistons back in before I pull the old pads out, and that gives me enough clearance to get the new pads in. But I've never gone from totally worn out old pads to brand new pads either since I swap back and forth for the track. Even with a pretty gentle push they seem to go back in nice and smooth, albeit slow. Seems like a force = speed kind of thing, so if you are in a really big hurry a tool would do the job quicker, and the one you have looks nice.

Oh, and that's crazy that the new Brembos changed that design. I always thought that was a huge selling point of the Brembos that you could swap pads so easily. Correct me if I'm wrong, but you still did not need to remove the caliper... you were able to push the pads back enough so that you could cock the rotor and get it off of the wheel studs, then get the pads out? Or was that a typo and you meant to say you can't change the pads without removing the 'caliper' (not the 'rotor').

Good info!

 

[nizerims]

Good catch Walt. Thanks. That is a typo...... I tried a few different things to remove the pads without removing the caliper. Nothing worked. I had to remove the caliper.

The only way I can imagine someone is getting the pads out without removing the caliper is:
The front rotors would have to be turned/resurfaced a few times. &
The brake pads would have to be broken or completely worn down. &
Some type of pry tool would need to be used; jeopardizing the painted finish on the caliper.