New problem. Got it all the way to work and it ran like a dream. Went out on lunch to try and start it and all I got was a single click. I thought it was the bad ground so I got a new ground kit for it. That didn't fix it. I tried to jump it. 1 click. I tested the battery and it was good. I figured the starter took a dump. Bought a new GM starter and installed it. Went to start. 1 click. I noticed that the security light no longer comes on no matter what. It doesn't blink or come on regardless of key position. Also no security light when locking or unlocking with the fob and the door switch. I'm at a loss here as this came out of nowhere.
Im not mad at you just understand threading anything into the side post that is not made of lead will over many removals and installs eat the threads badly. And it could also lead to the bolt pulling out especially if you over torque. But you should only use a high conductivity fastener like brass/copper/ because steel will make a high resistance point.
the 93 park avenue uses a 5mt delco-remy direct drive starter, but the OEM updated the cars to the gear reduction starters made by delco-remy in the 90s and it was a running change. The small one is going to be better, is the simplest way to say it.
Any thoughts on my no start issue?
I would be suspicious of your positive connection from the battery to the starter as you just replaced the starter, yes? Because a bad connection will do the one click thing on both ground and positive sides.
I apologize to the original poster for getting a little off topic, but threading a bolt into the side of the battery with a nut on it as shown in the pic actually has a few advantages over the oem setup. To clarify a few things, first, the oem bolt on the cable end with the tiny head is steel, nothing lead threads into the battery. The side terminal of the battery actually has a steel insert in it too. (I just went out and looked at a battery right now. Yes, at 2:21 AM. Up feeding a newborn.) Anyway, so the oem setup uses a short steel bolt to hold the cable end against the lead conductor on the battery. The bolt with the nut does the exact same thing, except it works as a stud instead of a bolt. You thread it in by hand until it bottoms out, and then you tighten the nut against the cable end terminal, clamping it against the battery. So instead of the oem short bolt wearing against the threaded insert in the battery while being tightened up, with your wrench about to slip on that ridiculously small head, the nut rides on the bolt with full thread engagement, not wearing anything out, (and allowing you to use a properly sized wrench on it too.) Yes, it is possible to overtighten the nut to the point where it pulls the bolt out of the battery, but it's more easily possible to overtighten and strip out the oem setup.
The OEM bolt isn’t conducting the current, the post loops touch the lead and eachother directly. If your stud setup somehow does this, it’s superior to OEM in every way
A no start condition with the security light acting up could be a problem with the VATS system (anti-theft). Try cleaning the chip on your key and the portion of the ignition the chip inserts into with some contact cleaner. When you turn the key to the accessory position that security light should come on for a couple seconds and go off if the VATS system is functioning correctly. If it keeps giving you issues, there's a VATS bypass you can do, just look it up. Also, if the system locks you out, it lasts five minutes, so wait 5 minutes before you try and start it again.
Not my car but I just wanted to say I so appreciate you! Mine is a 97 and not an Ultra, but it's been badly neglected and I'm trying to make it right. I read this just skimming through posts and went "wait, do I have maxifuses on my firewall"? One more thing to go look into. It's amazing to me how much you know about these cars. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
feel free to make an account and join us here in normal discussion. we would be happy to have you on board. and no problem 😉
ABS codes are not read by shorting the A and B terminal of the ALDL (DLC, OBD1 port) your idle should be somewhere 715rpm-800rpm when warm, so a drop to 600 is not near stall. 400 rpm is near stall lol. at your age of car, my first instinct would be igniiton or your (Unheated I think...) oxygen sensor is in need of replacement. how manyt wires go to your O2 on the exhaust manifold on the back of the engine?
OBD1 no codes. Full tune up has been done.
Oh really?? It had always idled right around 1k since I've had it. But when it does do it it surges quite badly. Bouncing back and forth from 600-800 rpms. The surging its only done when it gets warmed up. Ignition? I can check my O2 sensor when I get back to work. It has always misfired slightly on idle whether it's hot or cold.
| File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission Bulletin No.: 77-65-15 Date: May, 1997 Subject: Idle Surge or Increased Idle (Replace Supercharger Outlet Gasket) Models: 1992-95 Buick Park Avenue 1995 Buick Riviera 1992-95 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1995 Oldsmobile LSS 1992-95 Pontiac Bonneville with 3800 Supercharged Engine (VIN - RPO L67) Condition Some owners may comment about an engine idle surge, high idle (800 - 1000 rpm), or MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) illuminated with DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) P0131, P0171 or 44 set, depending on model year. Cause Supercharger outlet gasket may be split near the front of the supercharger (pulley end) creating an air/vacuum leak. Diagnostics Install a scan tool device in the vehicle. Turn air conditioner off. Warm the engine up to operating temperature. With the engine at idle, brake pedal depressed, and gear selector placed in drive, monitor IAC (Idle Air Control) counts along with Long/Short term Fuel Trim numbers. If IAC counts are less than 15 and Long/Short term fuel trim numbers are greater than 140, an air leak should be suspected. Check for and repair any air leaks around vacuum hoses, connections, and vacuum controlled devices. If the condition is still present, check for an air leak near the front of the supercharger (pulley end). If an air leak is detected in this area, remove the supercharger assembly and replace the supercharger outlet gasket. Correction Replace the supercharger outlet gasket with an updated gasket that has been redesigned to provide better long term sealing. Thoroughly remove the old gasket material from the intake manifold and supercharger assembly. Install the service supercharger outlet gasket dry; use no sealers. Parts Information P/N Description 24507608 Gasket - Supercharger Outlet |
Have you ever cleaned the IAC & passages? The idle @ 1k is too high! Do you have a vacuum leak in the LIM gaskets, or any of the vacuum lines? What cylinders are misfiring when "hot or cold"?
I’d start by cleaning your ABS sensors. They attract magnetic dust, and when there’s enough on them they stop working.
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