motor shuttering while at a light

I don't stop for Red lights anymore :blink:

Seriously, I am running a Tuned Turbo (T07 - Germany build) and I experienced this too. I started switching to manual and downshifting as I come into lights. It has addressed two issue....1) No more bucking 2) rolling Nuetral re-engage issue (lag)

Would be interested to learn if there is a TSB for ?
 
I don't stop for Red lights anymore :blink:

Seriously, I am running a Tuned Turbo (T07 - Germany build) and I experienced this too. I started switching to manual and downshifting as I come into lights. It has addressed two issue....1) No more bucking 2) rolling Nuetral re-engage issue (lag)

Would be interested to learn if there is a TSB for ?

Thats one way to do it. I notice that several other cars I've driven (a Tahoe, a Nissan Rogue rental car) all had occasional "shuttering" feel at the stoplight, but I'm simply feeling it in the brake pedal, not causing the entire car rock for a second or 2, causing my passengers to ask me about it. Of course, shifting to neutral at the light would make the car feel calm, and I notice many people do this as a matter of habit, especially with older cars with high mileage (unbalanced) torque converters. But I'm driving a new car darn it!

I don't know if I want to pray for the car to start stalling and throw a check-engine light, or figure out how to swap out the cam actuator myself to see if the problem goes away.
 
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I had this happen last week and it threw a P0014 code...which I believe has to do with a dirty solenoid. Dealer added oil, cleaned to solenoid and reset the code.
 
I had this happen last week and it threw a P0014 code...which I believe has to do with a dirty solenoid. Dealer added oil, cleaned to solenoid and reset the code.

Did you have this happen all the time, progressively getting worst, or was it a one time violent surprise?

Also, can you confirm if the dealer cleaned the CAM POSITION solenoid? All of them?

Did it happen again after the repair?
 
I forgot to post a week or so ago that my wife had the same issue as... Terrible vibration while stopped at a light (normal temp engine etc), as if the car was about to stall. It hasn't done it since (as badly) but I do feel occasional vibration. No codes. Car had 600 miles on it a week ago, and about 800 now.

I'm hoping it goes away. No other issues though, and the shuttering that I feel at the light sometimes is close to normall, not quite bad enough to warrant a dealer trip but something that shouldn't be there on a ~$30k car. I turned the AC off and no improvement. What my wife described was the whole car rocking, and felt like the engine was trying to beat itself to death. (We've had and have a lot of "interesting" cars so she doesn't scare easy)

On my car the issue shouldn't be deposits or wear.
 
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same thing with mine 2011 6k on it never stalled just rpm moves a little bit:blink:
 
Note to Buick customer service!!!

There are two issues here. The first seems to be neutral idle. My car stumbles at stop lights. If I had to guess the Idle Spark control is too aggressive when the engine goes into neutral idle! That aggressivce spark can cause the feel of "shuddering" as the RPM spark control tries to keep the command speed.

The second issue I have felt as a hesitation and lack of acceleration happens for me when I have started to roll around a corner or slowed and try to accelerate right after a 2nd gear upshift. The torque management for shift control is again pulling too much spark!
( If you wish the name a transmission calibration engineer that "fixed" or at least minimized this issue on other applications, leave me a PM!!)
The sag and lack of power to accelerate is transmission control software!
 
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Ok, i think i know what you guys are talking about and the solutions. First i need to clarify what Im about to say does not cause a drivability problem (atleast that ive seen). It sounds like a surging noise on the passenger side engine compartment area. However like i said before it does not cause a rough idle...stalling, etc. Take notice next time your in the car, take if out of auto mode, and keep the a/c button off. I should do it much more, if the a/c is on and the compressor is on it wont make the noise. With it off its pretty consistant. Cause is A/C compressor. ITs the same compressor they use on chevy cruze. There is a technical service bulletin regarding this. Fix is to install a new a/c compressor, which until friday the 29th were back ordered. Hope this helps.
 
With ac off or on, I get rough idle usually getting off a 30 minute freeway drive and stopped at the light at the end of the off ramp. I almost always us 91 octane Shell premium. I did however noticed that there was no rough idling on 94 octane. I'm wondering if anyone else noticed higher octane eliminates the rough idle?
 
If its an actual rough idle and i saw 1 person had a b0014, exhaust/intake solenoid performance. What causes this is dirty oil/too long between oil changes. in some instances vehicles solenoid needs replaced.
 
I can look into this for anyone with a concern with more information. Please do not hesitate to contact me privately and include the last eight of your VIN for more assistance. Thank you.

Tricia, Buick Customer Service.
 
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this is the same thing i asked Buick assistance but they were not able to do anything. If you get any type of information about a repair for that hesitation can you please pm. ive been going to the dealer and they said its normal this is BS. You should call buick so they can document it maybe if a bunch of people complain about it they will do something about it.
 
My GS has developed this Shuddering while stopped in gear. nothing bad, but it is very annoying.
 
If it were me, I would have my technician put both the exhaust and intake cam phasers in to start. there may be a problem with the cam actuators.
 
I was able to find the following service bulletin #11195B. However, it only apply to LAF (2.4L) engines in the Regal, Lacrosse, Equinox, Terrain from 2011.

The description:

General Motors has decided to conduct a Voluntary Emission Recall involving certain 2011 Buick LaCrosse, Regal; Chevrolet Equinox; and GMC Terrain vehicles equipped with a 2.4L gas engine (LAF). On these vehicles, the camshaft position actuator solenoid may stick, resulting in the illumination of the malfunction indicator light, rough idle, poor driveability, and/or possible stalling at low throttle opening.
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Perhaps we have a similar condition where the cam position actuator solenoid is either dirty or sticking, but not enough to generate a code/check engine light?

I've asked my dealer if they would consider pulling the solenoid to clean/check. They refuse to do any work without a CEL/code. Of course, they can't reproduce the stumbling driving the car for 5 minutes...

Is removing the cam position actuator difficult? I imagine there are 4 of them? easy to locate and remove?
 
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Add my 2011 turbo to this list, along with the following lists.....front suspension rattle that sounds like a loose ball joint, phantom radio volume not related to SCV. And Buick Customer Service isn't worth the time or energy. I absolutely love this car and its design, but these nagging issues combined with GM's complete disregard for my satisfaction is unexcusable. P.S. Tricia is a waste of time, take it from me after two GM case numbers and a BBB autoline case. She's just a front to make potential customers think that their issues are getting resolved. I finally just gave up and am buying my time until I can take my next purchase elsewhere.
 
Has anyone followed up with their dealer on the shuddering? Mine has not gotten any worse, but it's not any better either. Shuddering only occurs after driving at a sustained speed for a few miles and then coming to a complete stop. It will run rough for a couple split seconds and then smooth back out. Shifting from drive to neutral will instantly cure the problem, but that is even more annoying than the shudder.
 
Has anyone followed up with their dealer on the shuddering? Mine has not gotten any worse, but it's not any better either. Shuddering only occurs after driving at a sustained speed for a few miles and then coming to a complete stop. It will run rough for a couple split seconds and then smooth back out. Shifting from drive to neutral will instantly cure the problem, but that is even more annoying than the shudder.

That is my experience exactly. However, it only happens some times, so it is difficult to reproduce to my dealer. My dealer cannot reproduce the problem nor find an engine code, so they can't do anything about it.

The problem seem to be consistent regardless of the amount of driving time or outside temperature. I've experienced it cold (but not cold start cold, since rpm is above 1000), and in summer. I've experienced it with the engine not fully warm (after 5 minutes of driving), and after 4 hours of highway driving (exiting the highway and coming to the first light). I also found having the AC on or off doesn't make any difference.

The severity of the "shutter" may be a few "bumps" felt in the brake pedal or the seat of my pants. (It feels like rough idle). However, when the roughness gains momentum (or resonance), it rocks the car like I am letting go of the brake pedal intermittently. After a split second, the RPM gage would raise a touch and the rocking disappears. I can also shift to neutral and not have this problem at all, but that is a hassle.

Since my original post, I was able to experience this more - If the shuttering is going on, and I let the brake go and creep forward (adding gas or not), the car will actually feel like it is studdering - inconsistent power to the wheels. In fact, the amount of studdering seem to coincide with how bad the engine was shuttering. At its worst, it feels like the car is about to stall.
 
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