Need help, my 2004 Lesabre shifts hard.

[BuickGirlFromMars]

I got the pan dropped and inspected the hose and it is perfectly fine. I decided NOT to change it. Here's why:

I got a new Wix trans filter and it will NOT fit in the housing due to improper machining of the filter neck (see pic). I got another Wix, same problem. Due to the supply issues, manufacturers are outsourcing to others and quality it going downhill. The Wix filter is made in Taiwan. The specs for the filter neck are too thick/wide and it will not fit into the trans housing.

I got an AutozZone Duralast and it fit perfectly fine like the old AcDelco I replaced. It fit into the trans housing without issues (unlike the Wix).

So I don't want to change a perfectly good hose for a hose that looks weird and might fail. Supply chain issued have screwed the replacement part industry with lesser quality parts. If the hose showed deterioration, then I would have changed but it's the old adage of "if it's not broken, don't fix it".

View attachment 37928

View attachment 37929

That hose most definitely does not look perfectly fine, and your reason for not replacing it has nothing to do with the part itself.

You also ignored this entire conversation where we have shown the factory piece and I have shown mine and we have shown THE UPDATED / UPGRADED PIECE.


If you didnt put a sonex clamp on , then I pray for your transmission but if it fails its because of owner choice not parts.

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

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Since you dont believe me or the discussion thus far,

 

[lbear]

That hose most definitely does not look perfectly fine, and your reason for not replacing it has nothing to do with the part itself.

I inspected the hose and it was not deteriorated or soft in any way. I checked the clamp and it was secure. Can you point out what I missed and why the hose does not look to be in good condition?

You also ignored this entire conversation where we have shown the factory piece and I have shown mine and we have shown THE UPDATED / UPGRADED PIECE.

I didn't ignore the conversation. I am concerned the new piece is of lesser quality than the OEM piece. This is happening all over the parts industry, where the new parts are of lesser quality than those they are replacing. A top notch transmission rebuilder orders Sonnax parts for his trans rebuilds and he received a kit which has substandard parts, including hard parts that were manufactured with poor quality metal and tolerances. He couldn't even use the part. I've been seeing this also and even the Wix trans filter was substandard and wouldn't even fit in the trans case.

I appreciate your help and please don't take me wrong, I am not disagreeing with the issue at hand. I am just stating that the replacement part might be of a lesser quality due to the supply chain issues where manufacturers are outsourcing to places with poorer quality and controls.

 

[lbear]

View attachment 37940

Did the clip in this photo pop out or was it removed? It's hanging on one side.

 

[John Canon]

Did the clip in this photo pop out or was it removed? It's hanging on one side.

You are right ... the clip is not fully inserted into the opening. Also, if I could add, age, heat, and pressure takes its toll on rubber hoses. Your new hose looks fine according to my earlier comment. The outer cover is just a protective wrap. It could also provide a grippy surface for the crimp fitting, so the smooth hose doesn't slip out under pressure. I would install the new hose that you have in your hand.

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

I inspected the hose and it was not deteriorated or soft in any way. I checked the clamp and it was secure. Can you point out what I missed and why the hose does not look to be in good condition?


I didn't ignore the conversation. I am concerned the new piece is of lesser quality than the OEM piece. This is happening all over the parts industry, where the new parts are of lesser quality than those they are replacing. A top notch transmission rebuilder orders Sonnax parts for his trans rebuilds and he received a kit which has substandard parts, including hard parts that were manufactured with poor quality metal and tolerances. He couldn't even use the part. I've been seeing this also and even the Wix trans filter was substandard and wouldn't even fit in the trans case.


I appreciate your help and please don't take me wrong, I am not disagreeing with the issue at hand. I am just stating that the replacement part might be of a lesser quality due to the supply chain issues where manufacturers are outsourcing to places with poorer quality and controls.

I doubt the part made is from recent times but if it is, I get what you’re saying but those clamps fatigue over time and that hose gets soft at operating temp. It causes ebough failures sonnax has the clamp kit.

The whole point I’m getting at is that part fails in one or two ways and the afternarket has a solution and so does GM.

However, you have done neither. I’m concerned on your behalf for your differential unit. If that lube pipe becomes loose or it bleeds any of the pressure that’s a lot less atf protecting the differential. You aren’t supercharged, that helps. But the na l36 trans is less robust in the differential than l67 as well. At least consider doing a pan drop in the near future to replace it.

Or wait for the clamp kit.

You have a drain bolt and the magnets. You’re almost all the way there. It will be a nice and clean service too

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

Did the clip in this photo pop out or was it removed? It's hanging on one side.

The pic you see is my pan drop plus I removed the thermo element spring. That was untouched

 

[lbear]

I doubt the part made is from recent times but if it is, I get what you’re saying but those clamps fatigue over time and that hose gets soft at operating temp. It causes ebough failures sonnax has the clamp kit.

The whole point I’m getting at is that part fails in one or two ways and the afternarket has a solution and so does GM.

However, you have done neither. I’m concerned on your behalf for your differential unit. If that lube pipe becomes loose or it bleeds any of the pressure that’s a lot less atf protecting the differential. You aren’t supercharged, that helps. But the na l36 trans is less robust in the differential than l67 as well. At least consider doing a pan drop in the near future to replace it.

Or wait for the clamp kit.

You have a drain bolt and the magnets. You’re almost all the way there. It will be a nice and clean service too

I had a hard time finding the Sonnax clamp kit. Amazon showed out of stock. I did find it on Rock Auto for $3 plus $5 shipping and ordered it. Should arrive Thursday. I can't see them screwing up a clamp but will inspect it and if good, install it over the weekend. Blue loctite on the clamp screw?

Since it already has new trans fluid that I just put in yesterday. I can drain it via drain plug into a clean container and then just reuse it. That should be okay, right?

Fortunately it has the new drain plug pan which makes it easier to drop the pan.

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

I had a hard time finding the Sonnax clamp kit. Amazon showed out of stock. I did find it on Rock Auto for $3 plus $5 shipping and ordered it. Should arrive Thursday. I can't see them screwing up a clamp but will inspect it and if good, install it over the weekend. Blue loctite on the clamp screw?

Since it already has new trans fluid that I just put in yesterday. I can drain it via drain plug into a clean container and then just reuse it. That should be okay, right?

Fortunately it has the new drain plug pan which makes it easier to drop the pan.

I would not use loctite on set screw. I mean, it’s wise, but blue isn’t good for that temp. I would either cross thread it or look for a high temp thread lock with low strength. I think the anerobic is designed for heat?

But if you didn’t use anything im sure it would work fine. Sometimes I overthink those things too lol.

But on your fluid, did you use dex vi? Any additives? Just curious but yes if you use perfectly clean container you should be okay. If you do it on a cold engine you could use inappropriate containers like cookware LOL

BUT if you’re going back in, I rEALLY recommend just using your new part AND the clamp. Your concern about the new part will be fixed by the clamp and the new part will serve where your old one could eventually fail even if it just leaked, that adds up over time.
If you are gonna wait on the clamp I would also get a gm brand filter. Dura lady has the chance to be cheap bs or work good but I’ve heard horror stories On cheap filters like those inside. Like if you opened it. I can personally cut open a 440t4 durañast filter if you want. I have it from my first car, never got to it. It’s the same filter.

I also have my metal filled ac delco

 

[lbear]

I would not use loctite on set screw. I mean, it’s wise, but blue isn’t good for that temp. I would either cross thread it or look for a high temp thread lock with low strength. I think the anerobic is designed for heat?

But if you didn’t use anything im sure it would work fine. Sometimes I overthink those things too lol.

But on your fluid, did you use dex vi? Any additives? Just curious but yes if you use perfectly clean container you should be okay. If you do it on a cold engine you could use inappropriate containers like cookware LOL

BUT if you’re going back in, I rEALLY recommend just using your new part AND the clamp. Your concern about the new part will be fixed by the clamp and the new part will serve where your old one could eventually fail even if it just leaked, that adds up over time.
If you are gonna wait on the clamp I would also get a gm brand filter. Dura lady has the chance to be cheap bs or work good but I’ve heard horror stories On cheap filters like those inside. Like if you opened it. I can personally cut open a 440t4 durañast filter if you want. I have it from my first car, never got to it. It’s the same filter.

I also have my metal filled ac delco

Sonnax claims to use Blue Loctite per their online instructions. Blue Loctite 243 has a temperature rating of 360F

I use Valvoline Dex VI with no additives.

I will think it over on the hose. I really don't like that crease/line in the new hose. I've seen high temp/pressure hoses and they don't have lines like that in the hose. To me, it seems like a manufacturing flaw and a potential weak point where the hose can split and leak.

If you are willing to cut open the DuraLast trans filter, I would be curious to see what it looks like inside. Bob Is the Oil Guy forums claim DuraLast is made by Champion Labs. Same company that makes Mobil1 filters. One never knows where these parts are now being manufactured at with supply chain issues.

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

Sonnax claims to use Blue Loctite per their online instructions. Blue Loctite 243 has a temperature rating of 360F

I use Valvoline Dex VI with no additives.

I will think it over on the hose. I really don't like that crease/line in the new hose. I've seen high temp/pressure hoses and they don't have lines like that in the hose. To me, it seems like a manufacturing flaw and a potential weak point where the hose can split and leak.

If you are willing to cut open the DuraLast trans filter, I would be curious to see what it looks like inside. Bob Is the Oil Guy forums claim DuraLast is made by Champion Labs. Same company that makes Mobil1 filters. One never knows where these parts are now being manufactured at with supply chain issues.

Can you show us your new hose?

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

Sonnax claims to use Blue Loctite per their online instructions. Blue Loctite 243 has a temperature rating of 360F

I use Valvoline Dex VI with no additives.

I will think it over on the hose. I really don't like that crease/line in the new hose. I've seen high temp/pressure hoses and they don't have lines like that in the hose. To me, it seems like a manufacturing flaw and a potential weak point where the hose can split and leak.

If you are willing to cut open the DuraLast trans filter, I would be curious to see what it looks like inside. Bob Is the Oil Guy forums claim DuraLast is made by Champion Labs. Same company that makes Mobil1 filters. One never knows where these parts are now being manufactured at with supply chain issues.

full disclosure the duralast is from like.. lets see when Did I start driving... 2015/2016.

 

[lbear]

Can you show us your new hose?

When I bend the hose, the joint line opens up and while you don't see the inside of the hose, it is not well glued/sealed at the joint line and it shouldn't open up like that in my opinion. Why not use a solid piece of hose with no joint lines in it? I've used high pressure rubber trans line hose and it doesn't do that, like this hose does. Not very reassuring. Hose is stamped "Made in Costa Rica"

I'll take a pic of that when I get home and upload it to show you.

 

[John Canon]

That hose is normal.

When they manufacture hydraulic hose is is not just an endless extrusion coming out of a hot-pot. The first inside tube is extruded, usually in 100 foot lengths. It is squeezed out as a 100 foot rod is pulled through the hot-pot. Then the various additional layers are either wrapped as a spiral, or wrapped along the length and self-vulcanized, or braid woven around it.

The top layers are spiral wrapped for protection only. The gap you see is not a joint, it is the side to side placement of the wrapping. The hose is already sealed internally. And then the 100 foot length is completed and cured, and wound onto a large spool.

 

[lbear]

Here is a high pressure transmission line. Notice the hose does NOT have any joints in it. It is a solid piece of high pressure rubber trans line hose. Unlike the hose in the other photo.

 

[John Canon]

View attachment 37961

Here is a high pressure transmission line. Notice the hose does NOT have any joints in it. It is a solid piece of high pressure rubber trans line hose. Unlike the hose in the other photo.

They make both kinds. No matter what ... new is better than old.

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

View attachment 37961

Here is a high pressure transmission line. Notice the hose does NOT have any joints in it. It is a solid piece of high pressure rubber trans line hose. Unlike the hose in the other photo.

that is not submerged in Dexron VI and exposed to operating temperatures -40 to 250 f and pressures all over the map and for years

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

Anatomy of a Hydraulic Hose​

A hydraulic hose is made up of three parts: the tube, the reinforcement, and the cover. The tube is the innermost part of the hydraulic hose and it is what comes into contact with the hydraulic fluid that flows through the system. Next is the reinforcement, which gives the tube the necessary strength to handle the high pressures involved with transmitting hydraulic fluid. The reinforcement usually takes one of three forms (spiral, braided, or helical) and is made from wire. The outermost layer of a hydraulic hose is the cover, which is designed to provide protection to both the tube and the reinforcement. Additional protective covers may be added to protect the hose from extreme heat or abrasion.

 

[BuickGirlFromMars]

 

[John Canon]

Is that a transmission filter? What happened? Also your carpenter's framing square is very rusty.