the biggest problem to my knowlege is just overall debris build up or the hose itself leaks any amount the pressure and volume of the fluid reaching there has to be a lotI installed the new pipe hose and clamp over the weekend, so I should be good, right? Kind of a double suspender and belt approach.
I wonder how quick would the diff gear would fail once the hose was compromised? Is it within a few miles or 100s of miles?
threads likelyThe Dorman pan is leaking at the drain plug. It has an aluminum 18mm drain plug gasket and it has a slow leak. I'm pretty sure it's due to the surface not being completely flat when they welded in the bung for the drain plug. Even if true, I thought the aluminum gasket would conform to seal it but apparently not.
Any ideas on how to get this sealed?
One way would be to drop the pan again. Clean it and then RTV the plug threads and gasket and then tighten it up. Wait for it to dry, then install. Still a PIA.
Maybe trying a different gasket type?
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i wouldnt use tape on this applicationOil resistant O-ring, plastic washer similar to one used on oil drain plugs or Teflon tape as options to consider.
The reason I advise against it is you dont want any teflon getting into the fluid. teflon isnt something that would have desireable affects, 0/10 mod lol!It should be a metal pan, the Teflon was just a option and something that's been used before RTV was around.
It should be a metal pan, the Teflon was just a option and something that's been used before RTV was around.
The reason I advise against it is you dont want any teflon getting into the fluid. teflon isnt something that would have desireable affects, 0/10 mod lol!
plus temp and the fact Im not convinced its pipe thread?
also, the pan is an aluminum one I believe?
aluminum is metal., but this pan is not made by Dorman? did you have someone weld that up on the stock pan?The pan is metal, not aluminum.
I've used Teflon tape on coolant and oil temperature sensor threads in the past with no issues. I brought up RTV as that is what my Mazda oil pan uses to seal the pan to the transmission. They don't come with a gasket. One needs to use RTV to seal the pan to the trans housing.
The thread size is: M14-1.50
One of the reviews on Amazon states:
I was also told you need a copper washer ( not supplied). I had to do both, plus use rtv to keep it from leaking.
A copper M10x14 works perfectly. I always add some RTV to threads for extra safety
aluminum is metal., but this pan is not made by Dorman? did you have someone weld that up on the stock pan?
Also as said, the teflon is more an issue about what it might due to the trans since I dont have high confidence in the safety of the attempt, also, since this appears to have normal fine thread, then I would use a high temp med strength locker to keep it from backing off a copper washer which you found the size to get
is the dorman pan not aluminum? didnt you have to adhere the magnet with epoxy? or am I thinking of someone else who has done their pan lately? I would say an aluminum washer is better if you can find it but I guess Ive never seen the common sized crush washers at the auto store advertised in aluminum. maybe you can find some, maybe check a hardware store if you have it? As long as the size matches . i just have doubts of the original washer being good for this. did you use a torque wrenchSorry, I am under the weather (feeling sick). I meant to say that the pan is steel, not aluminum.
It is a Dorman pan and it came with that drain plug from the Dorman that way.
Is a copper washer better than an aluminum washer?
I ended up buying a drain plug for my 4.9 in my f150 and the auto store system must be wrong because way different bolt. but since i just needed the seal I drilled out the fiber washer to the size of my trucks bolt and then it actually sealed lol. Needs a bolt tho because next time its coming off with a 6 point and not a open end kinda thingSteel pan, threads similar to oil pan. I used a O-ring on a B&M aluminum trans pan and no drips, the oil pan drain bolts have a plastic washer and don't drip. There's options but the main purpose is to keep the fluid from leaving the threads pass the bolt, do what works best for you.
is the dorman pan not aluminum? didnt you have to adhere the magnet with epoxy?
did you use a torque wrench