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Has anyone replace their Tourx wheels?

I believe the stock wheel is cast. Cost much less to cast a wheel than forge. In a couple of post in the BBS wheel thread the reported weight of the factory wheel/tire combo at over 50 pounds each.

I didn’t weigh my factory wheels when I swapped for snow tires. The combination I put on was billed at 51 lbs a piece by fedex (which includes a few pieces of cardboard, and lots of tape). They were noticeably lighter than stock.
 
54lbs on my scale with changing to a 20" wheel, I gained 3lbs per corner moving sizes
What wheel is that?

I didn’t weigh my factory wheels when I swapped for snow tires. The combination I put on was billed at 51 lbs a piece by fedex (which includes a few pieces of cardboard, and lots of tape). They were noticeably lighter than stock.
Staying with an 18" wheel/tire combo or downsizing to a 17" can save a bunch of unsprung weight. There doesn't seem to be much weight difference between a 18" tire and a 20" tire from what I'm seeing on TireRack, so the wheel is where you would save weight. The nice forged 18" wheels I've looked at come in in the 18 to 21 pound range (18x8 - 18x10). The mid-range forged wheels tend to be 3 or 4 pounds heavier in the same size. And the cheap ones are almost as heavy as cast wheels at close to 30 pounds. The biggest difference in weight always seems to be the spoke design of the wheel; i.e. the more spokes or the more intricate the spoke design the more they weight. Show or go! 😉

I want to go to a 20 (+2) which "can" increase the weight of the wheel depending on the construction of the wheel. Really tough to make a light weight cast wheel. I've seen very few at less than 30 pounds as a 20" wheel. A billet wheel would be great and weigh less, but at 3 to 5 times the cost of forged wheels. And forged wheels seem to be 2 to 4 times the cost of a cast wheel.
 
What wheel is that?
Against what others may choose, I went with a 5x114.3 and variable pcd lugs on a centerline Rev7 20x9 et27

Staying with an 18" wheel/tire combo or downsizing to a 17" can save a bunch of unsprung weight. There doesn't seem to be much weight difference between a 18" tire and a 20" tire from what I'm seeing on TireRack, so the wheel is where you would save weight. The nice forged 18" wheels I've looked at come in in the 18 to 21 pound range (18x8 - 18x10). The mid-range forged wheels tend to be 3 or 4 pounds heavier in the same size. And the cheap ones are almost as heavy as cast wheels at close to 30 pounds. The biggest difference in weight always seems to be the spoke design of the wheel; i.e. the more spokes or the more intricate the spoke design the more they weight. Show or go! 😉

I want to go to a 20 (+2) which "can" increase the weight of the wheel depending on the construction of the wheel. Really tough to make a light weight cast wheel. I've seen very few at less than 30 pounds as a 20" wheel. A billet wheel would be great and weigh less, but at 3 to 5 times the cost of forged wheels. And forged wheels seem to be 2 to 4 times the cost of a cast wheel.
 
Here it is with the 245/35r20 on 20x9 et27. On my scale, I gained less than 2lbs per corner.
 

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A guy I work with was looking for wheels for his Dodge Durango and was at this site, so I checked it out and they had quite a few options, colors etc with a good configurator that actually has the TourX as an option. Even if you don't go with this brand they might have something close to what you are looking at so you can get an idea what they might look like. Looks even better on desktop.

Just a heads up don't order the models they list...they are showing the bolt pattern as 5x120.

Configurator | Touren
 
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Saw these recently on ebay. GWG wheels. They come is factory size/offset, and 20" also. $600 for a set of 18" wheels. Mixed reviews...not so much about quality but customer service.
gwg.webp
 
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Did not exactly replace my wheels, but did install snow tires. Found a set of used, but new, TOUREN TR60 18" wheels. ET 40. CB 72.62. PCD 114.3

IMG_2553.JPG
I used "wobble nuts" to compensate for the incorrect PCD

20 x alloy wheel M12 x 1.5 Wobble Wobbly Vari nuts variable PCD Honda | eBay

The bending-stress put on the wheel studs if you don't use wobble nuts is considerable, and I do not recommend it.

Also used centering rings to get the center bore correct

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DIK3V5A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So far they have been working great, and as my kids say, the car looks "ratchet".....
 
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Did not exactly replace my wheels, but did install snow tires. Found a set of used, but new, TOUREN TR60 18" wheels. ET 40. CB 72.62. PCD 114.3

View attachment 20939
I used "wobble nuts" to compensate for the incorrect PCD

20 x alloy wheel M12 x 1.5 Wobble Wobbly Vari nuts variable PCD Honda | eBay

The bending-stress put on the wheel studs if you don't use wobble bolts is considerable, and I do not recommend it.

Also used centering rings to get the center bore correct

Amazon.com: StanceMagic Hubcentric Rings (Pack of 4) - 70.3mm ID to 72.6mm OD - Black Poly Carbon Plastic Hubrings Hub - Only Works on 70.3mm Vehicle Hubs and 72.6mm Wheel Centerbore: Automotive

So far they have been working great, and as my kids say, the car looks "ratchet".....
I would think wobble nuts would tend to rust in salty road areas and would not wobble any longer.
 
I would think wobble nuts would tend to rust in salty road areas and would not wobble any longer.

So the wobble nuts only need to "wobble" when you are installing them - they have a cone section that is not rigidly attached to the threaded nut. This allows the cone to align with the wheel recess rather than be rigidly centered on the nut. Once the nuts are tight and wheel is clamped, the cone need not "wobble" any more.
 
So the wobble nuts only need to "wobble" when you are installing them - they have a cone section that is not rigidly attached to the threaded nut. This allows the cone to align with the wheel recess rather than be rigidly centered on the nut. Once the nuts are tight and wheel is clamped, the cone need not "wobble" any more.
If the wobble ring rust in position and you do not put the nut on the exact same stud with the same wheel at the same torque value, you are in worse shape than not using wobble nuts. Think about it.

I'd hit the nuts with rust blaster twice a month.

My wheels are standing up to the salt nicely, but the lug nuts have discolored and will eventually rust and look link crap. If wobble nuts were made from Nitronic 50 stainless steel with miniature grease fitting........
 
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If the wobble ring rust in position and you do not put the nut on the exact same stud with the same wheel at the same torque value, you are in worse shape than not using wobble nuts. Think about it.

I'd hit the nuts with rust blaster twice a month.

My wheels are standing up to the salt nicely, but the lug nuts have discolored and will eventually rust and look link crap. If wobble nuts were made from Nitronic 50 stainless steel with miniature grease fitting........
Since the nut only needs to wobble at installation, it is easy to make sure they are free to do so. If not, fix or replace them.
 
Different strokes for different folks but, no thanks, I think that looks ridiculous.

Funny, I can say the same thing about most cars in this thread with their cheap aftermarket Chinese 18" wheels. With that said, 21's are a bit extreme for me.
 
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