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I am only at 55,000 on my 2010 - I would change the air filter/spark plugs at whatever miles the manual specifies. I think our cars have a timing belt (vs. chain)?
To the OP, I suspect that I will get a lot more miles out of this car as it still feels new...
Hey all. I have a black 2011 cxs. The car still rides today the way it rode when I drove it off of the lot in mid 2011. Alright... So I might have most beat on here. My odometer currently reads 138,354.
About me: I commute round trip 65 miles daily M-F on non stop interstate hwy. When I first purchased my Lacrosse, I took a lot of trips in it. So, 4 years later, 85% of my mileage is from the daily commute. I have always kept it dealer maintained even after warranty expiration. I have also worried about reliability. To date, it tried to overheat on me last Thanksgiving Day. I had to be towed to the dealer. That was right around 120,000 miles. I later discovered that the water pump had gone so a new replacement was installed.
I'm very interactive with the service folks at the dealer and always ask plenty of questions. The water pump is apparently the biggest culprit that goes. Because the car has a chain vs a timing belt, that's not a worry. I had all of my fluids flushed at the proper intervals and things seem to be working well to date. I had to get new Michelins installed around 70,000.
The brakes are still original.
The interior still looks pristine.
I'm very particular so the outside looks like that of a much newer year.
No major alterations. All stock on the car.
I did have to have a motor replace ed a couple of years ago because the moon roof interior shade would open fully but only close halfway.
So for the moonroof motor: about $100
Water pump: around $250
So the service folks tell me that as long as I keep getting that synthetic oil change at the suggested interval (5,000 miles) I should be in good shape for awhile.
I'll admit that I worry but it runs like a dream and truly still feels the way it felt on day one.
So that's my story. I welcome your thoughts. I'm planning to keep running this beast until it gives me a reason to look elsewhere.
Here's some more maintenance info. Per Buick, every car should have the following done at 100,000 miles:
1. full throttle body induction clean/service
2. transmission system clean/service
3. Plugs changed
I had all three done at 94,000.
Next svc for the transmission sys is at 150,000.
The throttle body should be serviced every 30,000 so I am overdue for that. I'm just going to get both done again here soon.
I guess I should also add that I have run 93 octane in it since day 1.
did you look at doing the throttle body service yourself, it should be easy to do at home?
I probably could have done it at home. I've always been pretty good about that type of thing but I guess it's just personal preference, peace of mind, or laziness..lol.
You've got me stirring though. I'm going to check into what it would take to do that in the garage. 🙂
I probably could have done it at home. I've always been pretty good about that type of thing but I guess it's just personal preference, peace of mind, or laziness..lol.
You've got me stirring though. I'm going to check into what it would take to do that in the garage. 🙂
I'm gonna try to find a Youtube video, but you'll just need an old toothbrush and throttle body cleaner
Considering the LaCrosse has a direct fuel injection system I would imagine any induction cleaning service would only be cleaning the intake valves (and maybe the MAF sensor). If so then poking around in there with a tooth brush and throttle body cleaner may not be a good idea. That might work for throttle body fuel injected engines to remove fuel deposits on the throttle body but I'd be cautious about doing it on a GDI engine until I found verification from a trusted source no harm can be done.
Having just said all that, I also just knocked on wood. 🙂
Considering the LaCrosse has a direct fuel injection system I would imagine any induction cleaning service would only be cleaning the intake valves (and maybe the MAF sensor). If so then poking around in there with a tooth brush and throttle body cleaner may not be a good idea. That might work for throttle body fuel injected engines to remove fuel deposits on the throttle body but I'd be cautious about doing it on a GDI engine until I found verification from a trusted source no harm can be done.

You've asked a good question and one I haven't found a definitive answer to. I guess the red flag for me is the "throttle" part of it. If there's no throttle then is throttle body cleaner the correct product to use? There's no fuel mixed with air prior to entering the engine.
View attachment 8047
Shown above is a cutaway of the combustion chamber inside a Buick 3.6L V6 Direct Injection engine.