How To: Oil Change on Regal TourX

[Spuds]

Welcome to the forum and good choice in vehicle !
I myself am not a wagoneer, so I got the FWD Sedan. great cars all around.

Question 1.... I use the front cradle subframe cross member to jack the whole front in one go. My post # 57, I show a pic of my FWD Regal, and you can see it's not like your tourX as in it doesn't have a plastic cover under the pan and the cross memeber frame is right in the open right in front of the exhaust downpipe.

Question 2... Hope someone with a TourX can give you a better idea.

Question 3... Do NOT jack up by the Rear Differential !!! It will leak 100%... I Always jack up old trucks by the rear diff, but always use a 2" thick rubber pad between the jack and diff,.. but unfortunately this is not a good idea with modern cars.

When I do anything that requires me to take off the rear tires, be it rotate or change etc.. The only spot that's ideal is on the frame in front of each rear tire, a few inches in. Gonna have to jack each rear side separately. You'll see the spot, for it's the only good spot I could find.

Thanks! Yeah, I saw the picture in post #57. Really just wanted to make sure you or anyone else hadn't seen anything bad happen with that method in the last 6+ months. Appreciate the confirmation!

So if I wanted to jack the whole thing up, I guess it would be best to do both rear corners first, then the front altogether with the crossmember after removing the under panel?

 

[Hunter Mike]

I wouldn't trust cross-members or sub-frames on this 4,000 pig. Just don't seem robust. Here's the factory jack points so GM says no bueno. Never on the rear diff.

Fumitomo should work fine on a TourX, it's a pretty common GM size so you'll be able to find one that fits. The steel underpan will provide excellent protection from damage.

For an oil change I would recommend ramps for just elevating the front end. Faster and safer than jacks/stands. I have used 16k# Rhino Ramps for nearly a decade and am very happy. I trust them more than stamped steel. Plus, I've found more oil drains out when the front is elevated as the drain location is at the back of the pan.

If you want to jack the front end, get a jack pad made for pinch welds and the same with your stands. I found some on Amazon that work great. Amazon.com: ABN 5-½in Large Jack Pad Universal Fit Cross Slotted Frame Rail Protector: Automotive
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N691QNG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Gary N]

Since we're taking about jack stands, I'd like to shamelessly plug US Jack D-41609 3-ton garage stands because they are made in the USA. They may not be the cheapest, but I feel like I can trust them, and when I'm done still be able to pass them down to the grand kids for another 50 years, so probably the best value. US Jack Company - 100% USA made hydraulic jacks, jack stands, port-a-power kits, and floor/ service jacks

Hein-Werner was a jack stand that used to be made in the U.S.A., but they were bought out a few years ago by the Shinn Fu Company of America, Inc. and the stands are no longer 100% U.S. made.

 

[Spuds]

I wouldn't trust cross-members or sub-frames on this 4,000 pig. Just don't seem robust. Here's the factory jack points so GM says no bueno. Never on the rear diff.

Fumitomo should work fine on a TourX, it's a pretty common GM size so you'll be able to find one that fits. The steel underpan will provide excellent protection from damage.

For an oil change I would recommend ramps for just elevating the front end. Faster and safer than jacks/stands. I have used 16k# Rhino Ramps for nearly a decade and am very happy. I trust them more than stamped steel. Plus, I've found more oil drains out when the front is elevated as the drain location is at the back of the pan.

If you want to jack the front end, get a jack pad made for pinch welds and the same with your stands. I found some on Amazon that work great. Amazon.com: ABN 5-½in Large Jack Pad Universal Fit Cross Slotted Frame Rail Protector: Automotive
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N691QNG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
View attachment 23283
View attachment 23284


View attachment 23282

You do bring up a good point about the weight, but it is a ~3800lb wagon version of a ~3400lb car meaning most of that added weight is towards the back (well probably 50-75% is in the AWD so between the axles lets say). So I got curious and did some calculations and here are the actual weights each piece would be seeing when jacking up the car.

DISCLAIMER:
For all you know, I'm just a random potato on the internet. Please don't use my math to assume limits for safety, always do your own due diligence.

ASSUMING:
-TourX Preferred trim weight is actually ~3800lb as the internet says
-Standard 60F:40R weight distribution (Probably more like 58:42 in the wagon but this is a guess)
-Rear is already on jack stands at the designated support positions.
-I can read a tape measure...

THEN:
-Jack under the front cross member will see a maximum force of ~1515lb
-Rear jack stands reach maximum load (for the pair) of ~2284lb when jacked by front cross member
-Front jack stands reach maximum load (for the pair) of ~2567lb when jack is removed, assuming they are in designated support positions.
-Rear jack stands load drops to ~1232lb when the car is fully supported by jack stands.

That does put the front cross member at the maximum single point load for the whole process. Still need to figure out what that actually means in terms of structure, but figured I would share that bit I came up with. I suppose I could put this into an excel sheet if anyone were interested in playing with the numbers for other vehicles. Also a fun note, the rear differential would need to support a weight of ~1520 lb if one were to jack using that first, but only ~894lb if the front jack stands were already in place.

For anyone casually reading this looking for appropriate jack stands, please remember they are load-rated for the pair in total, not each individual stand.

 

[Zeroboostbuick]

Thanks! Yeah, I saw the picture in post #57. Really just wanted to make sure you or anyone else hadn't seen anything bad happen with that method in the last 6+ months. Appreciate the confirmation!

So if I wanted to jack the whole thing up, I guess it would be best to do both rear corners first, then the front altogether with the crossmember after removing the under panel?

Yes.
🙂

 

[Zeroboostbuick]

These front cradle cross members are stupid tough.

I've jacked up other regals grand prixs impalas and LeSabres by that cross member and never a problem. The impala cross member was aluminum too.

 

[FavaBean]

I changed the oil today. Evidently, I was on steroids when I installed the oil filter last time. I required a strap filter wrench to remove because stuffing my ill-fitting wrench with paper towels didn't work.

1. What is is the filter wrench size of the PF64? (I'd prefer an exact fit over a universal design).
2. Is anyone replacing the drain plug washer when they change their oil?

 

[ChibiBlackSheep]

I changed the oil today. Evidently, I was on steroids when I installed the oil filter last time. I required a strap filter wrench to remove because stuffing my ill-fitting wrench with paper towels didn't work.

1. What is is the filter wrench size of the PF64? (I'd prefer an exact fit over a universal design).
2. Is anyone replacing the drain plug washer when they change their oil?

I know you don't like universal designs, but this one has grabbed and broken free every oil filter I've ever thrown at it: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8/?th=1&psc=1

2. I just visually inspect and replace if necessary. These things aren't torqued tight, so it should last a long time.

 

[FavaBean]

Thanks @ChibiBlackSheep

The wrench you posted looks pretty cool - I haven't seen that design before but it looks like it would grip a filter well.

I was walking around Walmart yesterday and saw this wrench:

Hyper Tough Adjustable Oil Filter Wrench, Heavy Duty, Carbon Steel, 2-1/2 inch to 3-7/8 inch - Walmart.com

Buy Hyper Tough Adjustable Oil Filter Wrench, Heavy Duty, Carbon Steel, 2-1/2 inch to 3-7/8 inch at Walmart.com

www.walmart.com

I decided that since I do change my own oil on 4 vehicles, maybe a universal wrench would make sense... so I invested $4.50 and will update folks after my next next oil change.

FWIW - after I posted, I found a wrench on a Corvette forum which presumably fits the PF64 perfectly:

Amazon.com: uxcell 918 Aluminum Alloy Car 74mm Inner Dia 15 Flute Oil Filter Cap Wrench Socket Removal Tool: Automotive

Buy uxcell 918 Aluminum Alloy Car 74mm Inner Dia 15 Flute Oil Filter Cap Wrench Socket Removal Tool: Oil Filter Wrenches - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[ChibiBlackSheep]

so I invested $4.50 and will update folks after my next next oil change.

That looks like a pretty similar design. Clockwise turning opens the claw, and counter should let it grip and loosen the filter. If you find that one slips around and doesn't grip, try the one that I posted, but it looks like the exact same method as the tool I posted.

 

[gornlord]

Glad I'm not the only one with the odd strip of orange paint down the middle of the engine.
Here's another view from under a lift.

Oh man, I just noticed this on my car as well as I was getting ready to do an oil change. I thought I was having serious engine problems but I couldn't figure out why it looked like it was sprayed from the bottom. It's been really hot here recently and mine looks a lot more gooey, I wasn't sure if it was motor oil until I saw these pictures. This must be something they do at the factory.

 

[danzig997]

I ordered last the ACDelco PF64 Oil Filter for $6.47.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AZPAK4Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and Kirkland Signature 5W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5-quart, 2-pack for $21.99

The certifications are clearly labeled and have all of the ones that companies like Mobil, Pennzoil, etc. have. Warren Distribution supplies a lot of other companies with their private label oils. Warren, which claims to be one of North America’s largest independent lubricant manufacturers, markets its products around the world under several brands, such as MAG 1, and under private labels as well. Warren Oil Company is speculated to be the manufacturer behind Walmart’s Super Tech and Amazon’s AmazonBasics motor oils, but we can confirm it supplies the Kirkland variety.

https://www.costco.com/kirkland-signature-5w-30-full-synthetic-motor-oil-5-quart%2c-2-pack.product.100527865.html

 

[Wlepse]

For those looking for a deal on oil: https://slickdeals.net/?adobeRef=c2...k.com/p/super-tech-full-synthetic-sae/8653301

Some reported that this oil was getting closed out for like $18/12qts for full synthetic Dexos approved. Full price by me but I will keep checking. At 18 bucks I would bite and try the bag of oil, but at full price I prefer a more secure leak resistant jug.

 

[Spuds]

Hi All,
Sorry to necro this thread on my first post, but I had a few questions and this seemed to be the right (and most recent I found) place for them. Thanks to OP for pics and such! (Hopefully this shows up how I am expecting it to...)

1. Assuming I can get the under plate off before lifting the car, is there any consensus on whether it is OK to use the front subframe crossmember to jack the front (followed by jack stands at OP's suggested location of course). I just prefer to jack up one end at a time, as opposed to jacking each corner separately, preferring to shift weight around as few times as possible.

2. Has anyone considered installing an oil drain valve like this one: F-107 | Fumoto® Engine Oil Drain Valves? I have one on my other car and it is fantastic. There doesn't seem to be a 2018+ Regal-specific product, but it seems like a M12-1.75 should fit based on this seemingly OEM replacement: Buick Regal TourX Engine Oil Drain Plug Dorman 65430. Anyone think there will be clearance issues?

3. This one is a bit off-topic for just oil changes, but asking here to not have to necro two threads for two posts lol. What rear jack points do folks use if I wanted to rotate tires or something. I haven't found anything recent discussing that either. This might sound crazy, but has anyone tried using the rear diff (on AWD cars)? I know that's the rear jack point on my Subaru, err Toyota, err Scion... Anyway, based on some pictures from this thread (Lifted TourX, Where is oil Drain plug and Oil Filter located?) it looks like it is pretty well supported by various frame elements.

Since I saw this thread come back up I figured I would answer my prior questions for anyone interested...

1. Not only can you get the underpanel off without raising the car, you can also do the whole oil change on flat ground without using a jack. If you are at least 5'9" (I'm taller, but had some extra reach) and moderate build, the whole oil change can be done without raising the car.
2. The Fumoto F107 drain valve or similar (I installed the F107s) will fit just fine and not interfere with anything.

 

[mooooo]

does anyone know the size of the bolts that hold the gravel shield in place. I just did my first oil change, and I'm missing two of them. The other two were finger tight... The oil filter was also installed crazy tight, as was the drain plug (needed an 18" breaker bar to get it off). The corners of the drain plug are damaged, I assume the moron at the dealer ran it on with an impact.

 

[FavaBean]

...

 

[mymaestro]

The last dealer-shop-performed oil change stripped the bolts that hold the shield on... I will have to replace them.

 

[mymaestro]

I *think* the bolts are M8-1.25 x 25

 

[saab93driver]

does anyone know the size of the bolts that hold the gravel shield in place. I just did my first oil change, and I'm missing two of them. The other two were finger tight... The oil filter was also installed crazy tight, as was the drain plug (needed an 18" breaker bar to get it off). The corners of the drain plug are damaged, I assume the moron at the dealer ran it on with an impact.

Old thread...new victim. Dealership stripped bolts at last oil change. The OE bolts are M8x1.25x30 with a dog point to help self align the bolt. I know a normal bolt would work but I found these Ford hinge bolts that are an exact fit and style with bonus of a permanent washer, not crazy priced and come in packs of 4, how convenient.

 

[Displayhawk]

I bought my 2019 Sportback used and there wasn't a belly pan on it. I guess I will see if the dealer can get me one, or try to find one at a salvage yard. Although, I must say that performance or gas mileage doesn't seem to be affected by not having one.