Lowered GS..... finally!

Jscaife said:
Oh I was just sharing what I found. My plan is to buy the h&r springs but I wish it was more of a drop
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I think you will be happy with it either way. I was the same way and the more I look at it I don't know how much lower we could go without rubbing.
 
Has anyone come up with the definitive answer of what springs we AWD guys need to use?
 
I finally got around to installing the springs this weekend. not as hard to do when you have a friend let you use a lift and air tools! took just about 2 1/2 hours from start to finish if you take out drink breaks. I am absolutely in love with the way the car drives now even more than before and i love where the rear sits i am just hoping the front end settles down some and matched the rears wheel gap.
Before
IMG_0750.webp
After
IMG_0786.webp
Misc. after pics IMG_0788.webpIMG_0789.webpIMG_0790.webp
 
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What springs did you purchase for that ride height? And what's your experience in the change of the ride feel? The whole reason I bought this car was the soft ride because of the terrible roads here, its why I haven't pulled the trigger on a set of springs.

Also, where did you get the black wheel centercaps? they look really sharp
 
Krautastic said:
What springs did you purchase for that ride height? And what's your experience in the change of the ride feel? The whole reason I bought this car was the soft ride because of the terrible roads here, its why I haven't pulled the trigger on a set of springs.

Also, where did you get the black wheel centercaps? they look really sharp
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I ordered the h&r 28998-5 springs from a company in the UK I got them in two or three days. It was super fast. And the center caps are some stick ons I got on eBay. It makes the ride a little stiffer and more responsive a little less than if you'd have been driving in GS mode the whole time
 
Jscaife said:
I ordered the h&r 28998-5 springs from a company in the UK I got them in two or three days. It was super fast. And the center caps are some stick ons I got on eBay. It makes the ride a little stiffer and more responsive a little less than if you'd have been driving in GS mode the whole time
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That is how they should look from the factory! I ordered a pair from a company in the UK as well, I have been waiting weeks, it is killing me!
What was the company name?
 
dmr02 said:
That is how they should look from the factory! I ordered a pair from a company in the UK as well, I have been waiting weeks, it is killing me!
What was the company name?
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ppcgb.com
 
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Just want to confirm, 28998-5 springs work on 14+ GS no problem, 2 1/2 hour job with a alignment IMG_20150829_153429.webpIMG_20150829_153356.webp
 
Just wanted to add my 2 cents...
For the rear, I would never unbolt a LCA bushing bolt to remove a spring. Any bushing bolt for that matter! Seen too many times a seized bolt and a bushing spun and ruined. Then you're looking at an entire new LCA!
Why didn't you just unbolt the top shock boss (2 bolts iuntie side of the wheel well) and lower the control arm down with a jack while the car was on stands?
As for the front... I would of rented spring compressors and lowered the strut down by unbolting the top mounts, leaving ALL the parts on the car....
You might of been able to pull the strut out way easier.... You said you just "loosened" the knuckle/strut bolts. But the have to be completely removed as the strut knuckle bolt area is relieved so that the strut will stay in place with just the bolt in there.

Also, for those of you who undid the control arms, there is a procedure you must follow when bolting it back up. The suspension/control arms must be at "design height"when ening the final tightening. This is to insure that the bushing/control arm isn't pre loaded to max suspension extension. This may cause the car to sit slightly higher and decrease the effectiveness of the travel.
 
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xXCraigerzXx said:
Yeah we're all running the same springs...some of us maybe running the -5's and some of us be running the -1's in which there is practically no difference whatsoever except one is rated to carry an additional 5lbs or something like that. This is as low as it gets. We looked into cutting a little more off of mine but there was no way. I suggest going with a 40 series tire with 20's to help fill in more of the leftover gap as well as give you a better ride. I hate my 255/35/20s...definitley should have gotten the 40.
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The 1's aren't rated for 5 lbs more. Look closely at the spec... Gives the weight with s "+" sign on the end, so rated for MORE THAN the 5's... Which could be 5 lbs more or 500 lbs more :S
 
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Does anyone have issues with rubbing in the rear from passengers or heavy cargo in the trunk?
 
Lots of great info in this thread and I'm about to bite the bullet on the H&R 28998-5 kit.

My concern is wheel fitment, what are some of the more aggressive fitments folks are running?

I'm considering 19x9.5 +30 with 275's all around. (GS)
 
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