Auto start-stop override module is now available!

1500cc

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Pull the plate up and see if there is wiring there...
Like I said above, with CAN buses and multiplexing, not every switch has its own wires running back to the computer. I'd bet the Insignia cluster has the exact same number of wires and same plug as ours, but the difference would be we have a dummy/blank switch for start/stop disable whereas their cluster adds the electronics to talk on the CAN bus.

There is no wiring for the rear fog lamp like the Euro cars have. The housings themselves are also different. (I’ve verified in person.)
Is that switch ahead of the gearshift along with the start/stop disable, or in a different location altogether? If in a different location, it might make sense to eliminate an entire harness leg that will never be used.
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Rhetoric

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Is that switch ahead of the gearshift along with the start/stop disable, or in a different location altogether? If in a different location, it might make sense to eliminate an entire harness leg that will never be used.
No need to explain again. I understand how it works. I’m just speaking from experience as I’ve gone to the pain to retrofit European options into US spec cars and 90% of the time there has been no wiring there. Sure, the plug is the same, but I’ve had to add runs of wires, de-pin and re-pin, etc etc.

The rear fog shares the same headlight switch location as the US spec cars, but the switch is different and adds more buttons. I’m sure the plug is the same, but there are no wires back at the tail light end of the vehicle. Case in point: in my MKIV Jetta I ran a wire all the way from the headlamp switch to the rear fog bulb holder as there was no wiring there from the factory.
 

Robuk

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Hi Guys,

I don't own a Buick but thought you might try this, I have been trialling this hack in the UK for over 6 months on both my Mercs, a 2012 C-Class coupe CGI petrol and a 2015 SLK petrol. It works without any issues on both cars, no warning lights on dash, Coupe just past it's MOT with hack in place, the battery on the C Class with stop/start is over 7 years old.

On the C-Class the Stop/start light stays orange (off ), on the SLK the light goes out ( off ).

It has also been used on BMW's also with no issues.

Lift hood, find main starter battery, remove cover, disconnect negative rail battery sensor, ( the sensor on the black thick battery lead ) wrap insulating tape round the contacts, replace cover, close hood, that's it. By disconnecting the sensor the ECU can`t read the SOC of battery therefore it does not implement stop/start, at the same time the ECU also instructs the alternator to change from smart to regular charging so the battery is now charged fully where possible instead of 80% as before. The charge rate is between 13.8 volts and 14.3 ( continuously checked over 6 months ), a bonus is with stop/start deleted an expensive replacement AGM battery is now unnecessary, a standard sealed lead acid battery is adequate, to reverse just reconnect sensor.

You will not get any regeneration as the ECU needs to know the SOC for thar to occur, me, all I wanted was rid of stop/start.
 
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L J

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Not sure if they have had the $10 discount all along...
But enough reason for me to pull trigger on it.
Sick of putting in manual mode to make it stop using up starts.
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Rhetoric

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Sick of putting in manual mode to make it stop using up starts.
Without the OnStar Start Package™️ you are limited to 30 starts a month.

In my experience, this kind of use is not what kills starters. I’d bet money that it will last to 200k under normal use.
 

L J

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Without the OnStar Start Package™️ you are limited to 30 starts a month.

In my experience, this kind of use is not what kills starters. I’d bet money that it will last to 200k under normal use.
I hardly ever use remote start. The 1000's of starts by start stop is going to wear out starter eventually.
 

Rhetoric

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I hardly ever use remote start. The 1000's of starts by start stop is going to wear out starter evertually.
That package is a joke that I made up. Sorry for not tagging as <sarcasm>.

I stand by my comment on starter longevity. The only things that kill starters on my TDI are clutch dust and corrosion. Amount of starts has a negligible effect.

I figure hardly any of the folks here will own this car to 200k, so I’ll feel way less gratified when I hit the mark on the original starter.

How much do you drive, anyway? You’ve posted that you own like 16 cars.
 

L J

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That package is a joke that I made up. Sorry for not tagging as <sarcasm>.

I stand by my comment on starter longevity. The only things that kill starters on my TDI are clutch dust and corrosion. Amount of starts has a negligible effect.

I figure hardly any of the folks here will own this car to 200k, so I’ll feel way less gratified when I hit the mark on the original starter.

How much do you drive, anyway? You’ve posted that you own like 16 cars.
Your exagerating again R man. There are only so many start cycles in starting system. Stupid start stop will probably use up 95% of cycles..... if you do much city driving.
I do not like car controlling me, instead of me controlling it.
But then I am old school.
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Rhetoric

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Your exagerating again R man. There are only so many start cycles in starting system. Stupid start stop will probably use up 95% of cycles..... if you do much city driving.
I do not like car controlling me, instead of me controlling it.
But then I am old school.
Sarcasm, not exaggeration. I know people with 400k on Honda engines with original starters that have made it though brutal -30F winters and 110F summers. Yes, every part has a service life, but I do not agree with your old school take on this. I read your take as an exaggeration on a service life that has yet to be proven.

What’s the service life you’re expecting? Do you have a white paper showing data of proven starting life for starters? 30,000 times? A hundred thousand? I’m curious.

The starter is the last thing I’d worry about shitting the bed with this car.
 
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L J

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Sarcasm, not exaggeration. I know people with 400k on Honda engines with original starters that have made it though brutal -30F winters and 110F summers. Yes, every part has a service life, but I do not agree with your old school take on this. I read your take as an exaggeration on a service life that has yet to be proven.

What’s the service life you’re expecting? Do you have a white paper showing data of proven starting life for starters? 30,000 times? A hundred thousand? I’m curious.

The starter is the last thing I’d worry about shitting the bed with this car.
You really need to take a breath man.
Your getting your panties in a bunch, because I did not prove the SS system is going to shorten life of starter?
You can do anything you want with your car.
Not sure why you give a dam what I do or believe.
I give you the courtesy of not giving a damn what you do.
Shitting the bed...would I guess explain your shitty attitude.
PS You were exagerating I had 16 cars, I only have 6 cars.
I knew you had some problems when you went on and on about guy using CAPITAL LETTERS.
 
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Anaduff

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Lift hood, find main starter battery, remove cover, disconnect negative rail battery sensor, ( the sensor on the black thick battery lead ) wrap insulating tape round the contacts, replace cover, close hood, that's it. By disconnecting the sensor the ECU can`t read the SOC of battery therefore it does not implement stop/start, at the same time the ECU also instructs the alternator to change from smart to regular charging so the battery is now charged fully where possible instead of 80% as before. The charge rate is between 13.8 volts and 14.3 ( continuously checked over 6 months ), a bonus is with stop/start deleted an expensive replacement AGM battery is now unnecessary, a standard sealed lead acid battery is adequate, to reverse just reconnect sensor.
This sounds promising, but I'm not cutting any wires until I can see the wiring diagram for this car. And I see that Helm (or maybe I should say GM) has delayed the release of the service manual for the Regal (again); they are now giving a release date of 12 November 2019.
 

Lt0302

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just installed this. love it.
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Robuk

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Anaduff said,

Quote, This sounds promising, but I'm not cutting any wires until I can see the wiring diagram for this car. And I see that Helm (or maybe I should say GM) has delayed the release of the service manual for the Regal (again); they are now giving a release date of 12 November 2019. Quote.

No need to cut any wires, just disconnect the sensor plug, if it is like the Merc it`s a small box like object attached to the main negative battery lead, it has 2 small wires leading from it.
 

toga94m

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Anaduff said,

Quote, This sounds promising, but I'm not cutting any wires until I can see the wiring diagram for this car. And I see that Helm (or maybe I should say GM) has delayed the release of the service manual for the Regal (again); they are now giving a release date of 12 November 2019. Quote.

No need to cut any wires, just disconnect the sensor plug, if it is like the Merc it`s a small box like object attached to the main negative battery lead, it has 2 small wires leading from it.
On my 2006 BMW, when the battery sensor (voltage, current flow and temperature) was malfunctioning or disconnected, you'd eventually get a dashboard warning that suggested the dealer needed more of your money. I suppose that message would self-clear when you plugged it back in, for states with yearly inspections.
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L J

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I'm still very happy with it. The issue I talked about has just made me use remote start a lot less often. Otherwise, it hasn't caused any actual problems.
That sounds perfect, I hardly ever use remote start... so to remind me how crappy it was, I will start using once in a while.
I wont have to remove device to remember it was a PIA without.
 
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Robuk

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toga94m said,

On my 2006 BMW, when the battery sensor (voltage, current flow and temperature) was malfunctioning or disconnected, you'd eventually get a dashboard warning that suggested the dealer needed more of your money. I suppose that message would self-clear when you plugged it back in, for states with yearly inspections.

That`s a malfunction not a disconnect, my Merc with the sensor disconnected has been running for almost 6 months as normal other than no brake hold function, which I have said does not concern me, there are no warning lights on dash or any other problems what-so-ever.14396
 

Robuk

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For the ECU to enable maximum regen it needs to make room in the battery of around 20% , at that point the battery is verging on flat, only 80% charged. As far as I understand it the ECU will only allow charging of the battery via regen between 80% and a full. The ECU will not I believe allow the engine to drive the alternator under acceleration and charge the battery beyond that 80% SOC, only regen can fill that space, how can anyone tell whether regen is just starting at 80% SOC or near full when they arrive home after work. It appears owners are now having to put their batteries on charge overnight. For me I would sooner have the alternator charging as it did prior to being smart, at least I then knew that if my battery was OK my cars alternator would charge it at all times as full as possible, you can achieve that by disconnecting the battery sensor and also loose stop/start even in California.
 

toga94m

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toga94m said,

On my 2006 BMW, when the battery sensor (voltage, current flow and temperature) was malfunctioning or disconnected, you'd eventually get a dashboard warning that suggested the dealer needed more of your money. I suppose that message would self-clear when you plugged it back in, for states with yearly inspections.

That`s a malfunction not a disconnect, my Merc with the sensor disconnected has been running for almost 6 months as normal other than no brake hold function, which I have said does not concern me, there are no warning lights on dash or any other problems what-so-ever.
This is my BMW experience, not Buick/GM, but... sunroof flooding killed my battery sensor, eventually main computer refused to let the car start. I unplugged the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) and the car was able to start. Left it that way for months until it was warm enough to replace the cables (no garage, work in the driveway). That all said...... this may not apply to the GM computer's logic about when to light the Check Engine indicator. And yeah, during that time the alternator was sitting at a constant charging voltage instead of being "intelligent" about state of charge...
 
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