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Auto start-stop override module is now available!

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You really need to take a breath man.
Your getting your panties in a bunch, because I did not prove the SS system is going to shorten life of starter?
You can do anything you want with your car.
Not sure why you give a dam what I do or believe.
I give you the courtesy of not giving a damn what you do.
Shitting the bed...would I guess explain your shitty attitude.
PS You were exagerating I had 16 cars, I only have 6 cars.
I knew you had some problems when you went on and on about guy using CAPITAL LETTERS.

Haha. Stop diverting the topic and starter fear mongering. I still challenge you to prove the starter will fail noticeably sooner when comparing a vehicle with ASS and one without under identical driving conditions.

Gotta run, need to hang my panties out to dry from all that shit.

Oops, forgot my <sarcasm> </sarcasm> tags again.
 
One problem with smart charging is it apears for regen to be worth while it needs the 20% space in the battery which means the battery is at times near to flat, another problem is if the battery does go flat we are warned not to jump start the car as the ECU via the battery sensor sees a cold engine with a flat battery and could bang 16 volts into the system possibly frying the cars electronics. With the sensor disconnected and the alternator charging at a normal 14.2 volts I don`t believe this can happen. Is the small gain in fuel worth having to endure stop/start with its 500,000 possible lifetime starts as compared with a normal 50,000, not knowing what level of charge is in the battery, not being able to jump start your car and having to pay far more for a replacement battery probably more often.
 
Avoiding work today, I inadvertently came across the guy at Engineering Explained talk about a study where the difference in fuel consumed at idle and at startup was evaluated, as was the impact on overall fuel economy. He also provided commentary on the starters and the intelligence of Engineers....


I'm aware of no studies regarding the annoyance factor of stop/stop features!
 
Hi Guys,

I don't own a Buick but thought you might try this, I have been trialling this hack in the UK for over 6 months on both my Mercs, a 2012 C-Class coupe CGI petrol and a 2015 SLK petrol. It works without any issues on both cars, no warning lights on dash, Coupe just past it's MOT with hack in place, the battery on the C Class with stop/start is over 7 years old.

On the C-Class the Stop/start light stays orange (off ), on the SLK the light goes out ( off ).

It has also been used on BMW's also with no issues.

Lift hood, find main starter battery, remove cover, disconnect negative rail battery sensor, ( the sensor on the black thick battery lead ) wrap insulating tape round the contacts, replace cover, close hood, that's it. By disconnecting the sensor the ECU can`t read the SOC of battery therefore it does not implement stop/start, at the same time the ECU also instructs the alternator to change from smart to regular charging so the battery is now charged fully where possible instead of 80% as before. The charge rate is between 13.8 volts and 14.3 ( continuously checked over 6 months ), a bonus is with stop/start deleted an expensive replacement AGM battery is now unnecessary, a standard sealed lead acid battery is adequate, to reverse just reconnect sensor.

You will not get any regeneration as the ECU needs to know the SOC for thar to occur, me, all I wanted was rid of stop/start.

I'm curious about this 'solution'. Instead of spending $150 on an overpriced addon.

My negative battery terminal looks very similar to what Robuk shared a few posts back. [edit] So I disconnected it. The car started fine, will know on my ride home tonight if it worked. Even more curious to know the long term implications, if any, associated with having this disconnected indefinitely. Anyone with knowledge of the electrical systems in our cars care to chime in?
 

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I'm curious about this 'solution'. Instead of spending $150 on an overpriced addon.

My negative battery terminal looks very similar to what Robuk shared a few posts back. [edit] So I disconnected it. The car started fine, will know on my ride home tonight if it worked. Even more curious to know the long term implications, if any, associated with having this disconnected indefinitely. Anyone with knowledge of the electrical systems in our cars care to chime in?

Unplugging the black wire definitely disables the stop/start function, and vehicle drives fine otherwise. HOWEVER, it does trigger the engine light. So if you don't need to know if your engine is throwing codes (by relying on the light), that's one viable way to permanently defeat the technology.
 
Unplugging the black wire definitely disables the stop/start function, and vehicle drives fine otherwise. HOWEVER, it does trigger the engine light. So if you don't need to know if your engine is throwing codes (by relying on the light), that's one viable way to permanently defeat the technology.
Nice to hear it kind of works.
I wonder if there's something that, after unplugging that black wire/connector, one could plug into it to "trick" the car into reading that it's connected (getting rid of the engine light) but the battery isn't charged enough for stop/start.
 
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Nice to hear it kind of works.
I wonder if there's something that, after unplugging that black wire/connector, one could plug into it to "trick" the car into reading that it's connected (getting rid of the engine light) but the battery isn't charged enough for stop/start.

Probably some kind of resistor. Depending on if this wire does something else, you might need to be pretty specific with the value that you choose.
 
Probably some kind of resistor. Depending on if this wire does something else, you might need to be pretty specific with the value that you choose.

Probably reading actual current/voltages on the battery. The problem is that any fooling of this circuit will result in either current being sent to the battery to charge it or the car continuing to engage stop/start thinking the battery is fine/ready to perform its duties. By completely unplugging, I'm thinking it puts the entire stop/start system into a failed state (hence the engine light coming on), which is really the only way I can envision this trick working (by breaking stop/start altogether).
 
Opened hood to defeat start stop today, what a difference.
Just got email that product has shipped, I can't wait to install.
Never got use to putting in manual mode and taking out all the time. I think car and I both felt less stressed with it disabled.
Same here. Spent the 150 bucks for the AS/S module, manual mode was too much of a hassle. Installed past weekend, works perfectly and very easy install. Only thing to be aware of is you may get a brief hood open message every now and then. Wife noticed it day after install.
 
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Same here. Spent the 150 bucks for the AS/S module, manual mode was too much of a hassle. Installed past weekend, works perfectly and very easy install. Only thing to be aware of is you may get a brief hood open message every now and then. Wife noticed it day after install.

The hood open message may sometimes appear for a second or two immediately after pressing the ignition button. It will then disappear. It will never activate while you are driving. No issue at all.
 
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Unplugging the black wire definitely disables the stop/start function, and vehicle drives fine otherwise. HOWEVER, it does trigger the engine light.

I unplugged the sensor on mine (2019 Regal) and started it up--no warning lights on the dash. Did your 'check engine' lamp come on immediately, or did you have to drive it a bit?
 
I unplugged the sensor on mine (2019 Regal) and started it up--no warning lights on the dash. Did your 'check engine' lamp come on immediately, or did you have to drive it a bit?

I don't recall seeing it immediately, so it must have come on after I drove a bit.
 
BrianCoasters said:

I wonder if there's something that, after unplugging that black wire/connector, one could plug into it to "trick" the car into reading that it's connected (getting rid of the engine light) but the battery isn't charged enough for stop/start.

Probably some kind of resistor. Depending on if this wire does something else, you might need to be pretty specific with the value that you choose.

Not likely something simple and analog like that. My former wagon (2006 BMW) had a similar battery sensor on the negative post, and it was digital communication back to the ECU, conveying temperature, voltage, and historic current flow in & out. Lots of info to calculate/estimate the state of charge of the battery, and the optimal charging voltage (varies with battery temperature). If the ECU doesn't get plausible messages from the sensor, it'll complain (eventually).
 
Same here. Spent the 150 bucks for the AS/S module, manual mode was too much of a hassle. Installed past weekend, works perfectly and very easy install. Only thing to be aware of is you may get a brief hood open message every now and then. Wife noticed it day after install.
They had $10 off wben I ordered it so only $139.
I love it when I think I saved money, or got deal.
 
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They had $10 off wben I ordered it so only $139.
I love it when I think I saved money, or got deal.
Have had it for 2 weeks now and on my GS I get no messages at all! Love the No As/s...interesting that the 19 Silverado they have as a loaner had the AS/S installed!...so why not on our cars?..I wonder what Buick was 🤔
 
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Hi guys,

Regarding my hack of unpluging sensor, here is another plus, my neighbour has a similar C-Class CGI petrol Merc to mine but a more recent model, as already said, the ECU which controls stop/start has to also ensure there is enough room around ( 20% ) in the battery for the high charge rate of regen, as also said, the ECU allows the battery to drain down to around 80% charge via the battery sensor, at that charge level the battery is near to flat but has enough charge for Stop/Start to function when the battery is new. Prior to smart charging the alternator would always attempt to fully charge the battery good or bad, if the battery was good and the alternator working correctly the battery would always get charged near to full at all times.

I also run a Jan 2005 Audi TT with a standard alternator and a 7 year old standard lead acid battery, the car has never ever failed to start even after 14 days in the airport parking lot.

Back to my neighbour, he parked his car and went on a 2 week holiday, came back to find his 3 year old expensive AGM battery flat on his 3 year old car, called out rescue who stated he needed new battery, neighbour said charge it up, then took car for a drive and has had no issue with the battery since. This clearly indicates that his battery was good but probably down to around the 80% level ready for any regen to occur and by leaving it standing for 2 weeks it went flat.

Check charge rate with one of these, LED CAR VAN 12v 24v BATTERY VOLT VOLTAGE METER MONITOR GAUGE CIGAR LIGHTER 177 4806474749218 | eBay

Easy to check how much charge in battery, let car stand overnight, put multimeter across battery terminals and read number, then compare with list below to see SOC of battery.

Car-Battery-Voltage-Chart.webp

Is the small amount of fuel saved worth the hassle, for me I want my car to start like a Ronsen lighter, first time every time.
 
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Have had it for 2 weeks now and on my GS I get no messages at all! Love the No As/s...interesting that the 19 Silverado they have as a loaner had the AS/S installed!...so why not on our cars?..I wonder what Buick was 🤔
When had vehicle in for TSB at Buick, service manager said people hate SS.. and he was installing module in service dept.
They also had Chev and GMC franchise so probably making good money for 5 minute install for a hour of labor, and profit on part.
 
Anaduff said:
I unplugged the sensor on mine (2019 Regal) and started it up--no warning lights on the dash. Did your 'check engine' lamp come on immediately, or did you have to drive it a bit?
I don't recall seeing it immediately, so it must have come on after I drove a bit.

This could be something else, had nothing on my Merc, do you have the TORQUE app on your phone ( Torque — OBD2 Performance and Diagnostics for your Vehicle ) and an ELM327 V2.1 Bluetooth OBD2 Car Scan Tool like this below from Ebay, if so read the faults on torque, if it is a battery linked fault it should say so, try to clear the fault anyway, if it remains it is probably something else, even so, plug the sensor back in and try again to clear the faults if they clear unpluging the sensor is the probable cause, if they remain you have another fault.

s-l225.webp
 
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