A small advantage? I see you're strictly going on paper numbers and not real world drag racing. Kranz and I have taken the car to the track. We know the FWD limitations. Any more than 2500 RPM on launch spins the front wheels. After that you have to feather the peddle for about 1/8th of the track or risk wheel spin. By then the AWD launching closer to max RPM and HP might have 2-4 car lengths on the FWD. Trying to make that up on drive train loss or weight is the real pipe dream. Especially when the AWD does 0-60 in 6.2 seconds with less HP than my 2012 GS. There is supposed to be loss but in real world tests I can't find much. With the wheel spin of 400 HP how can it even be close?
So you're attributing a 2-4 car length advantage to AWD and less horsepower?
Change your driving style maybe? If the car isn't hooking up, you've obviously got too much throttle input.
Regarding traction, your limitation is tires and driver ability. In the case of the 12 GS, there's also the issue of that gearbox, but that's a whole other subject... since comparing an auto vs a manual isn't really comparing same for same.
The AWD GS also has shorter gearing, which would allow the car to get up to speed quicker with less HP than the previous model. And, by the way, we're only talking about an 11hp difference. Not exactly a deciding blow in a 4000lb car. The REAL story is the fact that the new car also makes its peak torque at 1700RPM vs the older car making it at 2400RPM. So yes, you CAN make that up with things like gearing and drive train set up.
400hp through the front wheels is easily manageable, if you know what you're doing. The import car scene proves that. Although I must say I have no idea where the 400HP comment comes from, as I don't understand the context of it.
If you've got 400hp in your car and that's what you're hinting at, then you'll need to do something about those tires, pick up a limited slip, and possibly get to work on a 2-step so you can get more effective launches. And then practice, practice, practice.
I can't imagine somebody would go through the trouble of getting to a figure like 400HP and not take the trouble to address a traction issue, and then simply assume the only solution is less HP and AWD.
Using that logic, the trick to getting the older car better track times is to dial out some of the HP so that you get traction and don't lose time spinning wheels. The easiest way to do that is with the gas pedal.
If awd was the end all solution for traction even in drag racing, that's all you'd see at the strip. And coming from more than a few decent performance AWD cars (DSM with big turbo, VR4 3KGT with basic
mods, B5 S4 with K04 swap, big turbo bugeye, Forester with STI swap), after first and part of second in most cases, you always want to be in the car with 2WD putting more power to the ground.
The reality here is that we're talking apples to oranges.
I suppose we can agree to disagree on what's ultimately better.
I'd rather drive the thing than just stomp on the gas and wish I had less power so my tires don't spin.
